231 



CHAPTEK XIX. 

 ON SPANISH AGRICULTURE— (Continued). 



The Olive. 



Interspersed amidst the monoton}' of corn-land and vine- 

 3^ard is seen the pecuHar fohage of the olive. Its regular 

 rows of sober green cover many of the higher lands and 

 hillsides, and its produce, next to corn and wine, occupies 

 the third place of importance. Outside the ancient liuertas, 

 where since Moorish days the orange, lemon, and citron 

 have Ijeen carefully tended and watered, the olive is the 

 only cultivated tree ; and well does it repay the minimum 

 of care which it requires. The olive enters largel}' into 

 the economy of every-day existence, forming an important 

 element both in the food and light of the Spanish people. 

 Olive-oil is the universal illuminant — in a little saucer with 

 rudely-fixed cotton wick (the inariposa), it lights the herds- 

 man's choza, the cottage, and cortijo : this oil is also a 

 leading article of consumption with all classes. To the 

 poor it is an absolute necessary, taking the place occupied 

 b}' meat among northern nations, giving flavour and zest 

 to the hard bread and to the tough dry stock-fish imported 

 from Newfoundland or Norwegian fjord — besides being 

 an essential ingredient in the universal gazpacho. The 

 fruit itself, in various forms, gives a national flavour to 

 nearl}' every dish. Every one eats olives, from the way- 

 farer on the dusty highroad, whose hunch of dry bread is 

 sweetened by a handful of the piquant fruit, to the Madri- 

 lenian epicure who at Lhardy's restaurant demands the 

 " Eeinas " from Seville. These olives are of large size, 

 — almost like walnuts — and are only rivalled in flavour by 



