IN SEAECH OF THE LAMMERGEYER. 299 



a forest region, where the track followed the course of a 

 clear mountain stream, embedded among oleander, laures- 

 tinus, and m3-rtle, their foliage forming an evergreen 

 tunnel, along which we rode in grateful shade. For 

 some distance our route and the burn ran parallel, 

 their courses sometimes coincident ; then we diverged to 

 the left, ascending the slope of a (jaiyanta, amidst noble 

 oaks, chestnuts, and ilex, all, save the oaks, in full leaf, 

 and from the gnarled trunks hung hare's-foot ferns and 

 masses of ivy and parasitic plants in green festoons. Of 

 bird-life, but little beyond a few common small birds was 

 observable, and on a sunn}^ slope we came suddenly on a 

 big grey mongoose, which, however, got to ground before 

 the gun could be unslung. 



The first range explored was the series of crags ter- 

 minating the Sierra de las Cabras ; but it proved blank as 

 regarded our chief object. The summit is a long, narrow, 

 knife-edged ridge, along which vertical strata of lime- 

 stone, bleached white as marble, protrude abruptly as the 

 walls of a ruined city. Amidst these ruinous streets were 

 a few Black Chats, and on a shoulder of the hill a solitary 

 Blue Eock- Thrush ; a small eagle was sweeping over the 

 slopes, but not a sign of the Lammergeyer could we see. 

 The da}' was bright and clear, and the view extensive 

 and wild. On the north the granite mass of San Chris- 

 tobal, now lightly flecked with snow, limited our horizon ; 

 but in other directions rose an infinity of grey, stony 

 sierras, range beyond range, some sharp, jagged, and 

 cruelly bare of vegetation. To the south we could discern 

 the silver}' sheen of the Lagunas de Janda, with glimpses 

 of the Straits of Gibraltar, and the misty outline of 

 African highlands beyond. 



We had a long, hard day ere we reached the cortijo of a 

 hospitable hill-farmer among the cork-woods of the valley 

 beyond. Here we sought a night's lodging, and the kindly 

 mountaineer, "Francisco de Naranjo, su servidor de 

 usted," as with a low bow and typical Andalucian courtesy 

 he introduced himself, at once made us feel that the 

 Spanish welcome — " aqui tiene usted su casa" — was, in 



