COACHING IN CEYLON 177 



physical pain which causes them to jib. On 



one occasion I missed the mail, and travelled 



from Matara to Galle in a so-called '* coolie 



coach," a long waggonette full of natives, and 



drawn by two wretched cobs. I got down 



at a halting place and was horrified to see 



the off horse zuas raw from shoulder to 



shoulder. A dozen miles from anywhere, I 



could do nothing. I fear that, even in the 



mail coaches, sore shoulders are the rule 



rather than the exception. 



It was on one of these "coolie coaches" I 



saw the most amusing change of horses I 



ever heard of E , who at that time was 



" Grain Commissioner " for the island, heard 



I was going from Galle to Colombo on a 



certain day, and kindly offered me a seat in 



his dog-cart, to save me the coach drive. 



He had his own horses stationed at intervals 

 12 



