IN AUSTRIAN TURKEY 201 



windings which, for the first time, brought 

 us from a trot to a walk. The whole 

 hillside was scored with old roads, and 

 one could plainly distinguish, first, the old 

 native track ; secondly, a rough Turkish 

 paved track ; then a steepish military road ; 

 and, lastly, the one we were on, visible for 

 miles above and below us. At last we 

 reached the pass — a signboard in it show- 

 ing an elevation higher than any mountain 

 in England — and plunged merrily down 

 into a narrow and wooded glen, succeeded 

 in its turn by a fertile plain all the way 

 to our journey's end. In a largish village 

 we rested and drank coffee. The old 

 woman who kept the han spotted my 

 nationality at once, and asked me if I 

 were not the son of General B. I re- 

 gretted I was not, but was able to tell 



