IN ALBANIA 249 



at that range his smooth-bore was naturally 

 ineffective. My roebuck — a small one — 

 was, of course, in velvet. 



Next morning we started for a long pull 

 in the gig through cold driving rain and 

 over a rough sea. H., who is a first-rate 

 swimmer, kept explaining what he would do 

 if we were swamped. As I am better on 

 land than in water, I felt this conversation 

 the reverse of cheering, especially as I could 

 not light a pipe. Fortunately, we landed 

 safely below the monastery which gives the 

 point its name, and climbed the hill to the 

 shore of the great Butrinto Lake. The day 

 was too thick for the scenery to be at its 

 best ; but every now and then we caught sight 

 of snow-clad mountains and of masonry- 

 topped hills ; but which of these latter was 

 the ''lofty Buthroton" of Homer, I canno 



