TRAVELLING UNDER DIFFICULTIES 



Before describing a few of my adventures in this 

 line I want to say that a traveller who, like myself, 

 does not travel in an official capacity, protected by a 

 strong military escort, exposes himself to great dangers, 

 such as the unforeseen outbreak of a general rebellion of 

 the natives or sudden attacks on his caravan. There was 

 a time, not so long ago, when it was very difficult for 

 me to get the permission to engage armed guards — 

 Askari — for my caravan. An official once told me that 

 he thought it was perfectly safe for me to travel through 

 German African territory with a "walking-cane." An\"- 

 how, if something happened to me, my death would 

 be avenged. I responded that I had no doubt of that, 

 but that I preferred to protect myself while living. 

 The government, of course, has a right not only to 

 forbid travel with armed guards, but even to show 

 adventurers of questionable character or doubtful mo- 

 tives out of the country, but it should put no obsta- 

 cles in the way of experienced travellers and explorers 

 who are willing to furnish a guarantee for their good 

 behavior. The officials are not always the best judges 

 whether the natives are well or ill disposed, as the 

 events in German West Africa go to show. In 1896 

 they had not the faintest suspicion that the rebellion 

 in East Africa was brewing which came to a head in 

 1899. 



In September, 1896, the big and well-armed caravan 

 which I had joined was encamped near the Meru moun- 



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