OF THE OLD WORLD. 435 



the attendance bad, and the living abominable. The 

 charges are moderate. We found the cuisine of the 

 Cafe Ourse (kept by a good-looking damsel, weigh- 

 ing some eighteen stone more or less, whom we 

 designated " the Stout Party ") much better ; indeed, 

 we had every reason to be satisfied both with the 

 cleanliness of the place and the cooking. 



Thursday, 18^/t. — Was engaged the whole day in 

 purchasing wine, spirits, and supplies of all kinds 

 for our expedition. Heard from some of the officers 

 of the 70th Regiment de Ligne that woodcocks had 

 been extremely scarce this season in comparison 

 with other years. 



Visited the town, and strolled about the public 

 promenade outside the walls, where the baud of the 

 70th played several pieces from different operas in 

 an efficient manner. Bands of French regiments 

 are much stronger than English ones. That of the 

 70th consisted of fifty performers, exclusive of the 

 drums. Had a wretched dinner at the Hotel de 

 France. Visited a cafe chantant in the evening, 

 where we heard some tolerable singing. 



Friday, Idth. — The Chef du Bureau Arabe kindly 

 procured for our party a large open carriage, saddle- 

 horses, and baggage-mules, and M. de Burg, a large 

 landholder, kindly lent us a large waggon, with a 

 fine team of six mules, to carry our supplies ; and 

 at about noon we left Bone for the Caravansary of 

 Ain Mokra, accompanied by M. Guyou Vernier and 

 a party of mounted Arabs. 



