rRT'ITS; 161 



;>v lonm with a sub soil of stiff clay. Either of these is 

 a good soil tor the orchard. The ground should be rich 

 enough for the production of good crops of grain, roots or 

 grass. This state of fertility is absolutely necessary for the 

 thrifty growth of the tree and its existence in a healthy and 

 vigorous state. Springy or wet land is decidedly bad for an 

 orchard, and if the farmer can appropriate no other for this 

 purpose, it should be well drained, either by under-ground 

 ditches or open trenches sutliciently deep to carry off the 

 water for a depth at least two feet below the surface, so as to 

 leave the soil perforated by the roots, in a warm and active 

 state. Rocky and stony soils of the above descriptions are 

 usually well adapted to the growth of fruit trees. The 

 stones keep the ground moist, loose and light. Some of the 

 finest fruits grow where there is scarcely room to deposit 

 the tree between the huge rocks. They should not however 

 lie too deep when close together, as they will impede and 

 control the growth of the roots. A sufricient area of earth 

 is always necessary for an ample growth of wood and the 

 full size of the tree at maturity. Stiff clays and light blow- 

 ing sands under very nice cultivation will grow fruits, but 

 they require active manure. Clays should be often plowed, 

 particularly in the fail, that the soil may be ameliorated by 

 the winter frosts. The sands require compact culture, 

 jiiul appropriate manures. All such as are suited to ordi- 

 nary crops on these lands will promote the growth of trees. 

 The use of other soils however for the orchard should be 

 preferred, as the fruit will be larger, fairer and better fla- 

 vored, and the trees of much longer duration. 



PLANTING. Dig the holes from three to six feet in diam- 

 eter and twelve to eighteen inches deep, according to the 

 kind of soil and the size of the tree. The more compact 

 the soil, the deeper and larger should be the hole. When 

 ready to plant, let enough of the best or top soil be thrown 

 into the botom of the hole, so that the tree may stand about 

 one inch lower than when removed from the nursery. The 

 tree should be taken up so as to injure the roots as little as 

 possible. If any be broken, cut them off, either square or 

 obliquely with a fine saw or sharp knife. If left in their 

 bruised or broken condition, they will canker and decay in 

 the ground, but if thus cut off, numerous rootlets will spring 

 out at the termination of the amputated root, which strikes 

 into the soft earth and give increased support to the tree. If 

 the soil be poor, the roots should be covered and the holes 



