RAISING HORSES 59 



and with the proper slope of toe-line. It is the square gait that conserves 

 strength in the horse and increases endurance. See to it that your colt 

 grows up square gaited. 



TRAINING COLTS About training: Teach the colt to be subordinate 

 at the start. Handle him, let him get accustomed 



to it. Teach him to come when called. Petting and a lump of sugar will 

 do it. Don't let him be afraid of you or take fright at anything. If he 

 is to amount to anything you must keep him courageous and fearless. 

 Don't let anyone tease him or startle him and take all the fresh spirit 

 out of him. If there happens to be any practical "fooler" in the neighbor- 

 hood who likes to scare and "fool" with a colt, get rid of the fooler in 

 any prompt sure way you can think of, whether he is your best hired hand 

 or nearest relation. 



When you catch a colt, don't catch by the neck only, like as not 

 you will swing him and throw him. Catch with one hand under the neck, 

 the other under the hams or around the buttocks, so that you can steady 

 his movements. This is a good way to teach the commands of Whoa 

 and Get Up as you can control him with your hands and move him for- 

 ward with every command of Get Up and stop him when you saw Whoa. 

 Also teach him to back and to Stand Over. Teach the use of the halter 

 early, first to lead and then to drive. Get the colt familiar with the bit 

 so he will respond to commands, before ever you attempt to harness him. 

 In teaching the colt teach only useful lessons and not the so-called "cute 

 tricks" of biting, rearing and kicking, which will have to be untaught later. 

 Teach only one thing at a time, but teach that one thing thoroughly. Be 

 patient with the little fellow but get his entire attention for a short period 

 at a time, and while von are teaching: give him your entire attenion. 



Don't forget to teach your colt to fast walk if you want a good price 

 for him later. A fast walking horse can get through with about a third 

 more labor than a slow one, and he is valued accordingly. 



FIRST TIME When ready for harness don't use a new set. Select 

 IN HARNESS one that smells of horse, and let the colt nose it first, 

 then gently slip it on him. Did you ever see a thought- 

 less man sling a rattling, strap-flopping harness over the back of a colt 

 and then grin like an idiot because the colt took fright? Maybe he didn't 

 realize he was ruining the colt and makmg him that much harder to 

 manage. 



Don't use new harness, but don't go to the other extreme and use 

 some old, worn-to-the-point-of-breaking stuff that may cause an accident 

 and spoil your colt, for all time most likely. 



There is one main requisite to success in training it is kindness. 



That is why good horsemen don't speak of "breaking" a horse any 

 more. You might have to break (or bust) a bucking broncho but let 

 your farm colts be trained, not "broken." 



STOP AND Our animals are real agents in the processes of civilization. 

 THINK Whether we keep a few for pets or for their labor, or for 



their valuable products, all our dumb animals compel us to 

 habits of kindly care, if we want to get the most out of them. Isn't this 

 thought, a pleasant one to consider, that animals cultivate our gentleness 

 and responsibility as against any lurking brutality in us? 



