502 A WALK THROUGH THE VIA GELLIA. 



did we find ourselves in close contact with such a magni- 

 ficent collection of wild flowers, and we dwelt long in 

 imagination on the aspect of this valley in the fresh and 

 glorious months of April and May. 



Up to this time we have been on foot nearly three 

 hours, a great part of the time having been spent in 

 gathering and examining at leisure the various plants met 

 with ; and now the pleasing murmur of a distant rill falls 

 on the ear. Soon by the roadside we meet with a crystal 

 pool, the water rushing down a mossy gully from a con- 

 siderable height and proving of a delicious purity and 

 coolness. We pause here for rest and shade. How deep 

 the stillness ! broken only by the murmuring of this sylvan 

 stream and the confused hum of innumerable insects wing- 

 ing their way in the noontide air. How delightful the 

 change to one whose ordinary occupations are among the 

 busiest haunts of men! The only sign of civilisation is 

 the road just traversed; the only sign of domestication an 

 unusually wild, shaggy, and picturesque specimen of that 

 picturesque animal the donkey. How delightful! But, 

 alas! no human happiness is enduring or complete. The 

 Via Gellia, beautiful as it is, is not altogether free from 

 worldly grievances. We are suddenly assailed by a host 

 of fierce flies lean, hungry blood-suckers. In vain we 

 buffet, they are too active to be caught, too hungry to 

 be driven off. Now we try to remember that we should 

 return good for evil, and never retaliate except in self- 

 defence. But it really was unendurable. What was to 

 be done? Luckily we bethought us of our pipe. We 

 filled, lighted, and blew a cloud upon them fast and 

 furious. The battle was but for a minute; as suddenly 

 as they had appeared they were gone! We arose with a 

 hearty laugh, pursued our journey, thinking to ourselves, 

 " When a man gets a holiday but seldom, he cannot afford 

 to let it be spoilt by trifles." 



Hitherto we had scarcely quitted the road, being 

 content with the number of species of plants growing by 



