IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 15 



the city from the sea decidedly pretty, and as one 

 thus approaches it from the northward it reminds 

 one a good deal of St. Malo. Certainly the 

 Velebit range, which forms the background, and 

 the lower hills in the middle distance are 

 desperately barren, but, nevertheless, not altogether 

 destitute of wild beauty. 



The chief interest that the Dalmatian capital 

 has for the stranger is that it is the beginning 

 of the East. Bright-coloured, unfamiliar-looking 

 costumes take the place of the " slop-shop rig," 

 now, alas ! almost universal in the more commonly 

 visited European countries. As in all Dalmatian 

 towns, the absence of all wheeled traffic is peculiarly 

 noticeable. 



Having commenced this book with the firm 

 determination not to write " guide-book," I must 

 refer the reader who wants to know " what to see 

 in Zara," to Murray or Baedeker, or whatever red- 

 backed authority treats of Dalmatia, if any of them 

 do. Suffice it for me to say that the " sights " are 

 few, but that the whole town is a sight to a 

 Western European. I may perhaps be allowed to 

 mention the cathedral, as the handsome campanile 

 with which it has recently been provided is the 

 work of a British architect. 



The heat was very great that morning, and 

 we had reason to bo thankful that the oriental 

 custom of stretching awnings across the narrow 



