IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 79 



An Englishman recently offered to cover it with 

 sovereigns to have it, but the owner preferred that 

 it should remain as a stimulant to devotion in his 

 native town. 



Next day being market-day, we made our way 

 to the place in the hope of seeing some quaint 

 figures, but upon the whole we were disappointed. 

 Many of the peasantry nearer the town wear the 

 usual little cap in black, and dark-coloured clothes, 

 braided somewhat after the Hungarian fashion. 

 The hillmen often wear the baggy Turkish trousers, 

 and some few the turban, the first we had seen. 

 Some also wear the cumbrous leather belt, which a 

 friend of mine recently described well, as " a sporran 

 higher up than usual," universal in Montenegro and 

 Albania, and indeed in South Dalmatia and Herze- 

 govina. In the two first-named countries, however, 

 it is chock-full of weapons, and even here I noticed 

 some with the forbidden revolver,* and more with 

 the knife. The women of Spalatro are distinctly 

 better looking than those of Northern Dalmatia. 



By the way, I write Spalatro as more familiar 

 to me, but here they call it Spalato. These Italian 

 names in a Sclavonic country are an anachronism — 

 a concession to an infinitesimal majority — which 

 should be abolished. My letters are post-marked 



, , , Zadar Sibenik Spljet txti • j 



in two languages, thus : Zara ■ Scbeuico > g^- Which 

 should I follow ? Ought I to write Kogosnica or 

 * Forbidden, that is, to those not provided with aporto d'arme. 



