82 IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 



illustrious townsman.* Her very existence is due 

 to the solidity of his palace walls. 



Modern Salona consists principally of wine- 

 shops, the stone tables outside of which are simply 

 composed of a slab taken from the ruins laid on 

 the capitals of two ancient columns. At one 

 of these, where the table-legs were an exquisite 

 design of acanthus leaves, we stopped to rest 

 beneath a magnificent row of sycamores. I fear 

 the tourist has rather demoralized the Salonitans, 

 for at this primitive hostelry we were charged for 

 bad wine double the price of good. But then one 

 can hardly make a row at being charged twopence 

 halfpenny a bottle instead of half that sum. 



Before leaving Spalatro it became necessary to 

 decide on our future plan of action. The original 

 itinerary which I had sketched out was Brazza, 

 Lessina, Curzola, and so on. These islands, 

 though interesting in their way, afford nothing 

 new to those who have already visited the more 

 northerly ones. Brazza is, after all, only a larger 

 Morter ; and even Lessina, though it has some 

 beautiful scenery, is very much the same. So 

 we finally decided on following the mainland in 

 future. 



Some fifteen miles south of Spalatro lies the little 

 town of Almissa or Omis, which is situate at the 



* Of course, I here take Salona to be the forerunner of 

 Spalatro. 



