94 IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 



CHAPTER XII. 



There is a fine old castle at Almissa, which I 

 fancy few people have seen. It is invisible from 

 the town, and even from the sea it only looks like 

 another of the towers that crown the cliffs. To 

 see it one must either go up to it (over a thousand 

 feet), or, better still, climb one of the higher hills 

 facing it. The way I first came to see it was this. 

 The first day I felt fit for a walk again, I left camp 

 rather late, a little before four p.m. It was a 

 Sunday, by the way ; but in Dalmatia, after mass 

 has been duly attended, we make but little difference 

 between that and any other day. The afternoon 

 was close and dull, with frequent thunderstorms. 

 I went through the pass on the north side, and 

 climbed the hill which closes in the pass when it 

 is seen from the sea. It was hard work, being 

 mostly covered with hill vineyards ; but when 

 several hundred feet were left behind I reached 

 an oak wood, from whence a splendid view of the 

 ruin as well as of the valley was to be had. A 

 couple of magnificent white-tailed eagles were 



