104 IN THE LAND OF THE BOEA. 



and the second for the actual move — and contented 

 ourselves with utilizing one decent day for a long 

 ride to the Falls. We followed the good road its 

 entire length of ten or eleven kilometres, and then 

 struck a rough track. The valley is similar to 

 that which I have already described, with a 

 succession of hills. At last we reached the village 

 of Duare. A kilometre further on is the first fall, 

 and after the heavy rain of the previous days we 

 thought it a fine sight. It is called the " Mala 

 G-ubavica," and consists in a single fall of the 

 whole river, which comes down some score of feet 

 into a deep pool. A thundering sound in the 

 distance told us that something better was in 

 prospect, and we hastened on to the "Velika 

 Gubavica," which is five times the height of the 

 lower fall. To complete the romantic beauty of 

 the scene, an old castle on a lofty peak overhangs 

 the whole. This part of the country adjoining the 

 Cettina valley is very bleak and desolate, even for 

 Dalmatia. It is a long day's work to get from 

 Almissa to the Falls and back, especially as the 

 pace is, by the nature of the going, confined to a 

 walk for quite half the way. We had not been in 

 the saddle for months, and fatigue was not the 

 only thing I suffered from that night. 



As soon as we had decided to abandon the idea 

 of the Duare camp the weather at once improved, 

 as if to tempt us to a change of plan ; but we were 



