124 IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 



CHAPTEB XV. 



I have spoken of the old fort at G-radina as being 

 situate on a detached spur of the ridge which 

 divides the seaward marshes from the eastern 

 ones. The term ridge, however, is a misnomer, 

 for the "hill," as they would call it in the High- 

 lands, consists of a series of extinct volcanoes of 

 greater or less extent, similar to the one I have 

 described as existent at Pasman Island. As was 

 the case there, all the centres of the craters are 

 cultivated, and in one is a village — but such a 

 village ! The road, if one can possibly give it 

 that name, approaching it consists of rock as 

 rugged but more slippery than that of the 

 surrounding hills. The filthy huts are thatched 

 with reeds brought from the marsh. The very 

 inhabitants seem to belong to that class in the 

 scale of civilization which is below curiosity, and 

 seeks rather to hide itself in its lair at the 

 approach of a stranger. No stronger reminder of 

 the fact that one is only some four or five miles 

 from the Turkish frontier than a sight of this 

 village gives could be required ; and it is a proof 



