IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 159 



PART II— THE HERZEGOVINA. 

 1894-5-6. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



It seems strange to go to a Turkish town — and 

 surely Mostar is that, for the Mohammedan popu- 

 lation outnumbers all the others — to re-enter civili- 

 zation, but nevertheless this is exactly what we 

 did do. Only a peremptory demand for pass- 

 ports at the station exit reminded us that we 

 were under a military occupation, and then we 

 entered the hotel omnibus and drove off. 



Surely the wildest romancer never imagined 

 such a strange medley as the larger towns in 

 the Administered Provinces present. The hotels 

 are Viennese in style, if not quite in comfort ; 

 the principal shops almost equal to those in our 

 English country towns. The streets are clean 

 and well kept, and the sanitation excellent. And 

 then, at every corner there is a mosque, a Moham- 

 medan burying-ground, or (more homelike still to 

 the Anglo-Indian) a genuine Eastern bazaar. 

 The medley of nations and costumes is equally 



