IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 311 



us to Glavaticevo for half a sovereign, and to 

 that I should hold them, whether they used three 

 horses or thirty. (I may here remark that the 

 proper charge was ahout half that sum, but in 

 the end, as will be seen, I had to pay one-fourth 

 more even than this.) However, the artful Turk 

 was too many for me in the end, for, on making a 

 start, we found the two pack-horses gone on, and 

 my wife's horse loaded with such an infinity of 

 minor paraphernalia as to make the idea of any- 

 one's riding thereon quite ridiculous. Protestations 

 were quite useless at this stage ; but we were told 

 we should be able to get another horse at Klunj, 

 the first village en route. There was nothing for 

 it but to start on foot, and in this way we covered 

 the first hour and a half of our journey, which 

 led along a track through hazel covert and over 

 rough, sharp rocks. 



Arrived at Klunj, we found, of course, no 

 horses, they having gone to graze ; and it was 

 not till I threatened to add my wife's weight to 

 one of the loads that our Turks really bestirred 

 themselves, and finally turned up with a diminu- 

 tive flea-bitten grey, with a much worse saddle 

 than the one for which they had coolly substi- 

 tuted a pack-saddle before leaving Lakat. Worse 

 than all, it only had one rope-girth — a fact that 

 was destined to give trouble later on. The pack- 

 saddle of the country is peculiar, being very high, 



