IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 317 



would be a burly priest, his black robes very in- 

 appropriately crowned with a greasy fez. This 

 headdress — the Turkish fez without the tassel, 

 but with the bit of red stuff to which it should be 

 attached — is the almost universal wear of the 

 regular clergy in the Herzegovina, at all events in 

 the country districts. Near Mostar I have seen a 

 "bowler" hat used, but they have the special 

 privilege of not going bareheaded. These Slav 

 friars are also allowed not to shave the upper lip — 

 indeed, some of them wear most carefully kept 

 moustaches nearly a foot long ; nor do they shave 

 the crown of the head. 



That first day the river was a lovely sight, the 

 pool opposite being of a more intense blue than I 

 have ever before seen river-water, whilst what we 

 drew for use was as clear as crystal. (The drink- 

 ing-water came from a spring a hundred yards off.) 

 Alas! the next morning it was like cafe-ait-lait, for 

 the weather was not kind to us those first days, 

 but rang the changes on thunderstorms, heavy 

 rain, and dripping fog. The last seemed quite 

 homelike, but was a decided novelty in the Herze- 

 govina. No weather this for the quest of chamois 

 on the higher ground, so I contented myself with 

 a milder form of sport with the beagles along the 

 river-banks. By the way, a few furlongs below 

 our camp, the river commences to be the boundary 

 of one of the five great sanctuaries for game which 



