IN THE LAND OF THE BORA. 349 



in general, and was delighted when I told hiin of 

 the Armenian agitation, then at its height, and of 

 the pressure that was being put upon the Sultan. 

 He himself sees no other newspapers but religious 

 ones. But I think he had a still worse opinion of 

 the Greeks, who, by the way, have their church 

 and priest at Borke, four hours away. We ex- 

 changed visits several times after this, and, I may 

 say, became quite intimate with the old gentleman, 



who wound up his civilities by lending E his 



saddle to ride to Mostar on. 



Situated as our camp at Glavaticevo was, 

 between Church and Mosque, we had ample oppor- 

 tunities of observing the difference between the 

 Moslem and Christian peasantry, and I regret to 

 say that the result of these observations was by no 

 means in favour of the latter. Of course both 

 creeds are recruited from a common stock, and 

 their dress is almost identical. But the contrast 

 between the groups of villagers one met going 

 home on Fridays, clean, sober, self-reliant, intelli- 

 gent, and cheerful, and those who reeled along on 

 Sunday evenings dirty, at best semi-intoxicated, 

 and boorish, was most marked. I certainly have 

 no hesitation in saying that I always preferred to 

 associate with the " infidel," and should be sorry 

 to hear that the ultimate result of taking these 

 provinces from the Sultan had been the foundation 

 of a Christian State here. One Bulgaria is enough 



