IN THE LAND OP THE BORA. 391 



double-bedded room to give them?" Of course 

 we said that, having paid for our room, we in- 

 tended to have our money's worth ; whereupon 

 the money which I had objected to pay was 

 instantly refunded. Nor were we inconvenienced, 

 for our boat arrived rather before her advertised 

 hour of eleven, and when I woke next morning 

 we were at Cattaro. 



Cattaro, like Eagusa, perhaps suffers somewhat 

 from the exaggerated descriptions of it which one 

 hears and reads, but the Bocche are undeniably 

 fine. The town itself has little of interest, and 

 when I first gained the deck I could see nothing 

 but the bustling Eiva, to which we were made fast, 

 and the tremendous cliffs and precipices up which 

 the endless zigzags of the Cettinje road wind. 

 High up among them stands Fort San Giovanni, 

 and by it is a tremendous mass of rock literally 

 chained to the hillside, to prevent its falling right 

 upon the town. To our right the cliffs fall back a 

 little, and there the Budua road escapes from the 

 valley. 



Our time was too limited to allow us to do the 

 sights of Cattaro, which I believe are limited in 

 number. One is the chapel of its patron saint, 

 Trifon, in the cathedral ; another the great orange 

 tree which grows in a cave near Fort San Giovanni, 

 whose fruit has never been tasted by mortal man, 

 the spot being quite inaccessible. 



