228 UNIVERSITY OP CALIFORNIA EXPERIMENT STATION. 



usually be unwrapped within from one to two weeks, the latter period 

 being usually about right early in the season. In later budding the 

 wrapping must stay on longer, usually at least three weeks in July, 

 while with fall buds which are to remain dormant over winter six or 

 seven weeks will do no harm. With spring or summer buds which are 

 to be forced into growth the same season about one third to one half of 

 the seedling top should be cut off after the buds are unwrapped. After 

 the bud has started into growth and its further development is assured, 

 the stock should be still further cut back as closely as possible to the bud 

 without injuring it and the end waxed over. In the case of fall buds 

 which are to remain dormant over winter the seedling top should not be 

 cut off at all until spring, when it may be cut off entirely at one time if 

 the growth of the bud commences vigorously early in the season, or if the 

 bud does not start promptly it may be safer to cut off only one half of 

 the top and the remainder after the bud commences to grow. 



This form of bud is shown on a top-worked tree in Fig. 33. The buds 

 in the figure, however, extend further around the stem than we now 

 think desirable. A bud which does not reach more than halfway round 

 does not produce the swelling and constriction of the stock seen in these 

 pictures. 



Other methods than the above have been tried for budding walnuts 

 and some have given more or less success both with us and others. The 

 ordinary shield bud has been entirely unsuccessful in our experience, 

 and it seems to a certain extent that the larger the portion of bark taken 

 off with the bud the better are its chances to stick. Some who have used 

 an inverted shield or T bud, pushing the bud up rather than down and 

 slipping it under the bark, have had better success than by the ordinary 

 method of making this bud. Complete ring or annular buds take as 

 readily as the flute bud described above, but there is objection to this 

 form on account of the constriction produced in the stock at the point 

 of budding. Where a strip of bark is left on the back side of the stock, 

 as in the flute bud which we have described, this objection is obviated. 



E. J. Kraus, in Circular Bulletin No. 16 of the Oregon Agricultural 

 Experiment Station, recommends what he calls a hinge bud, which is 

 a large, rectangular patch bud inserted under the bark of the stock. 

 In this form of budding two transverse cuts are made in the bark, one 

 above the other, about half an inch long and three quarters of an inch 

 apart. The two are connected in the center with a longitudinal inci- 

 sion and the bud, after being cut with a portion of attached bark of 

 the proper size and shape, is slipped down under the bark of the stock 

 in the same way as in the ordinary shield or T bud. 



The uncertain results which almost always accompany walnut bud- 

 ding, even at the best, appear to come about largely on account of the 



