BULLETIN 231] WALNUT CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 253 



of not over eighteen inches, after which the cut ends should be carefully 

 sealed over with grafting wax. We would do this with trees of all 

 sizes, and would insist particularly upon such a practice with trees 

 going into non-irrigated orchards. After trimming, cutting and wax- 

 ing, the roots should still be kept moist, either by heeling them in, 

 planting at once in the orchard or proper packing, if they are to be 

 shipped. 



PLANTING. 



In planting the walnut orchard the ground should be thoroughly pre- 

 pared as for other fruit trees and staked off for the trees at the desired 

 distance apart, which subject we have discussed elsewhere. A large 

 hole should be dug for each tree, considerably larger than the root, and 

 with the heavy subsoil best suited to the walnut it is extremely advisable 

 that a stick of dynamite be discharged at a still greater depth below the 

 hole. This should then be filled in with top soil, up to proper depth 

 for the tree. The tree is then put in place, planting it fully as deep or 

 a little deeper than it stood in the nursery and the soil should be thor- 

 oughly tramped and settled about the roots. If not well planted, a thick 

 soft root like that of the walnut is liable to decay, and special pains 

 should therefore be taken to settle the soil firmly about the roots so that 

 they will immediately begin to absorb moisture and commence new 

 growth. Planting may be done at any time after the trees are ready, 

 usually the earlier in the winter the better, in order to take advantage of 

 the settling and moistening of the ground by the winter rains. After 

 planting, the trees should be carefully watched to see that they are all 

 doing as well as possible and not suffering in any avoidable way. If a 

 considerable portion of the top has been left without cutting back, this 

 should be protected from sunburn by tying about it a rather loose wrap- 

 ping of cornstalks, tules, or special protectors made for this purpose. 

 It is not well to wrap the trunks tightly in paper or cloth, as this makes 

 the bark more tender after the wrapping is removed. If the tops have 

 been cut black close to the ground one good sprout should be selected to 

 form the new stem, and as soon as the growth of this is assured all the 

 others which start should be cut off. Usually the most vigorous sprout 

 should be chosen, but, other things being approximately equal, it is 

 better to take the one closest to the ground and one on the windward 

 side of the trunk. A good sized, at least a 2 by 2 stake should be set in 

 the ground close to the tree, to which the shoot may be tied up. The 

 shoot should then be tied once or twice to this stake in a similar manner 

 as is done in the nursery until it reaches a height of about six feet, when 

 it should be topped and caused to branch. After this shoot is well estab- 

 lished the remaining stub of the old stem should be cut off closely above 

 it and the scar waxed over. 



