PRUNING OF PEAR TREES. 



ations in their treatment. The shoots which are 

 nearest to the main stem, and on the branches, 

 will be generally weak, and should not be inter- 

 fered with, as they are almost sure to become 

 fruitful in time. The next on the branch, higher 

 up, if under four inches in length, should also 

 not be interfered with ; but those on the highest 

 portions .of the branches will always grow freely, 

 because the sap flows thither vigorously. 



That mode, which is the same in principle, of 

 bending the branches towards each other, is also 

 a good way of checking a vigorous tree ; but 

 with a weak-growing tree it is useless. More- 

 over, the ends of the branches thus bent should 

 be let loose in time, or they will dry up, and the 

 vertical spurs must be closely watched. 



Horizontal, or fan-shaped pear trees are trained 

 on these same principles. The lowest stage of 

 branches must not be lowered too soon, as before 

 said. 



These must be pinched to four buds, and the 

 further growths each to . one bud more. In the 

 winter they must be broken at three buds. The 

 very strong shoots should be only partially broken, 

 through, instead of pinching them off, and broken 

 off quite at the winter pruning. The horizontal 

 shoots are more fruit-bearino; than the vertical. 



O 



These last are annoying, and grow fast ; of course 

 there are no spurs with two shoots on them, as 

 in wall cordons, but each spur is a single one. 



G 2 



