BUD 



[140] 



BUD 



from the alburnum, to which they are 

 always connected by central vessels. 

 Buds are formed, at first, only in the axils 

 of leaves, that is, in the angle between 

 the leaf and- the branch; but, if these 

 buds are destroyed, what are termed 

 adventitious or latent buds are formed, 

 yet chiefly in the neighbourhood of the 

 regular buds. 



BUDDING is the art of making a bud 

 unite to the stem or branch (then called 

 the stock) of another tree or shrub, in- 

 dependently of its parent. The object 

 thus attained is a rapid multiplication of 

 that parent, and, in the case of seedlings, 

 an earlier production of fruit than if the 

 buds were left upon the parent. Deli- 

 cate kinds are strengthened by being 

 worked, as it is technically termed, upon 

 more robust stocks, as when a tender 

 vine is budded on the Syrian, and the 

 Double Yellow Eose upon the common 

 China. Variegated roses often lose their 

 distinctive marks if grown upon their 

 own roots. Some roses, budded upon the 

 common briar, afford finer flowers than 

 upon their own stems. Buds from seed- 

 ling peaches and pears are earlier pro- 

 ductive, and produce finer fruit, if budded 

 upon a robust stock; but buds of the 

 pear, inserted earlier than the close of 

 August, produce branches, and not blos- 

 soms. Where the bud comes in contact 

 with the wood of the stock, a confused 

 line is visible, between which line and 

 the bark of the bud new wood is pro- 

 duced, having solely all the characteristics 

 of the parent of the bud. Buds of 

 almost every species succeed with most 

 certainty if inserted in shoots of the 

 same year's growth ; but the small wal- 

 nut-buds succeed best which are taken 

 from the base of the annual shoots, 

 where these join the year-old wood of 

 that from which the bud is taken. Buds 

 are usually two years later than grafts in 

 producing fruit ; but then every bud will 

 produce a new plant ; but each graft has 

 at least three upon it. Buds succeed 

 more readily than grafts; and, if a graft 

 inserted in the spring has failed, a bud 

 may succeed in the summer of the same 

 year. Buds are ready for removal when 

 their shield, or bark attached to them, 

 separates readily from the wood. This 

 is usually in July or August, and is inti- 

 mated by the buds being well- developed 

 on the axils of the present year's leaves. 

 Scallop-budding maybe done almost at 



any season. Bucls should be taken from 

 the middle of the shoot; those from its 

 point are said to make wood too freely, 

 and those from the base to be more un- 

 excitable, and, consequently, less prompt 

 to vegetate. 



Stocks for budding may be much 

 smaller than for grafting, even on the 

 same year's shoot. Several buds may be 

 inserted on older branches, and thus a 

 good head be obtained sooner. On stocks 

 of long-standing, scallop-budding is to 

 be adopted. Just after rain, and when 

 there is no violent wind, is a time to be 

 preferred for budding. Whatever mode 

 of budding is adopted, quickness in the 

 operation is indispensable ; for, if the 

 wound in the stock or that of the bud 

 becomes dry, the budding will fail. The 

 bark of the stock should be cut and raised 

 first, and, if possible, on its north side. 

 A piece of moist bast may be twisted 

 over the wound whilst the bud is prepar- 

 ing; and the moment this is done it 

 should be inserted, and the ligature put 

 on forthwith. 



The following practical details of bud- 

 ding fruit-trees and roses details ap- 

 plicable to all other trees and flowering- 

 shrubs capable of being thus propagated 

 we have copied from the pages of The 

 Cottage Gardener : 



If the bark does not rise well, that is, 

 does not part freely from the wood, the 

 buds will not succeed. 



A good budding -knife is the first thing 

 to be provided : any respectable nursery- 

 man will furnish this.* Next, some 

 really good matting : we prefer the new 

 Cuba bast; but the finest of the ordinary 

 Russian mats will answer equally well, 

 perhaps better, provided the material is 

 very fine and very tough. 



The bast must be cut into lengths, 

 and adapted to the size of the stocks, be 

 they what they may. A mere novice 

 may soon determine the length necessary, 

 by twisting a piece round any twig of 

 similar size, as in the act of budding. 



Before describing the process itself, it 

 will be well to speak of the condition of 



* The best budding instrument we have ever 

 eeen is made by Mr. Turner, Neepsend, Sheffield. 

 It has a budding-knife at one end, and a grooved 

 hook at the other end. This hook being inserted 

 in the T cut made with the knife, keeps it open, 

 and allows the bud to be slipped easily down the 

 croove into its place. It really supplies the 

 fcuddcr with a third hand. 



