BUD 



[142 ] 



BUD 



paper or tin moulds, and kept sligbtiy 

 agitated till it begins to congeal. 



We before observed, tbat when the 

 season is late, and the bark rises some- 

 what badly, it may be excited to rise. 

 A liberal watering with liquid-manure, 

 of the temperature of 90, the day before 

 the operation, will, in general, facilitate 

 the proceeding. When the bud, or shield, 

 after the wood is removed, appears hol- 

 low at the bud part, it is commonly re- 

 jected. Such are not always barren ; but 

 they are apt to lie dormant for a year or 

 two. 



When a choice of position offers itself, 

 we prefer the shady side of the stock. It 

 is of more importance, however, to select 

 a clear portion of the stem, free from 

 knots, although some fancy the bud 

 takes better if placed in a position from 

 whence a natural bud has been removed. 

 It should be taken as a maxim, that only 

 those buds should be selected, the leaves 

 of which have become fully developed; 

 the leaf, also, should, if possible, be un- 

 blemished. 



Cloudy weather is, in all cases, to be 

 preferred to sunny periods. 



For budding Kosvs, and, indeed, for 

 all budding, the best time of the day is 

 either early in the morning, at least as 

 early as seven o'clock, A.M., or after 

 three o'clock in the afternoon; cloudy, 

 moist days are most suitable. Cut off 

 the head of your stocks, and all the side- 

 branches to three, that is, for standards. 

 For dwarfs, cut off to within six inches 

 of the ground; then, with the knife, 

 make an incision on the upper side of 

 the young side-branches, as close to the 

 main stem as possible. The incision 

 should be about an inch long, lengthwise 

 on the branch. Cut a cross just at the 

 top of this incision, in a direction some- 

 what more slanting than in the annexed 

 drawing (fig. 2) Then take off the bud, 

 previously cutting off the leaf, leaving 

 part of the leaf-stalk. Cut away with 

 the bud a portion of the bark from the 

 parent stem, which is technically called 

 the shield of the oud, and a portion of 

 wood with it. This bud, and the bark 

 and wood with it, should be, altogether, 

 rather more than three-quarters of an 

 inch long. Turn the bud over between 

 your finger and thumb, and dexterously 

 take out the greater part of the wood ; 

 but be careful to leave the wood full in 

 the eye of the bud. Then raise one side 



of the bark of the incision, in the shape 

 of a T made in the stock, and with the 

 ivory handle of the budding-knife slip 

 in one side of the bark attached to the 

 bud, then turn your knife, and lift up 



1. The bud, xvith the wood taken out, and ready 



to be put into the stock side-branches. 



2. The branch, or stem, with the incisions made, 



previously to raising the bark. 



3. The bark raised for receiving the shield of the 



bud. 



4. The bud fitted into its place. 



5. The bandage put over the parts. It is here 



represented as done with a shred of bass- 

 mat ; but stout worsted thread is better. 



the other side of the incision, and the 

 bud will drop into its place. Press the 

 bark of the bud to the farther end of the 

 incision ; and if any projects beyond the 

 cross incision on the stock cut it off. 

 Then tie with worsted neatly, and the 

 operation is complete. A laurel-leaf fast- 

 ened at each end by a ligature round the 

 stock, so as to arch over the bud, will' 

 complete the arrangement; and thus the 



