GEA 



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GKA 



short or long. Speechly recommends two 

 inches of the two year old, and one bud 

 or eye of the new. These were inserted 

 perpendicularly in pots, the bud just 

 level with the surface. They will, how- 

 ever, strike root from thick shoots, of 

 three or four years old, of a greater 

 length, and these may, if necessary, be 

 planted at once in the border ; or if in 

 pots, deep ones must be used, and the 

 cutting may be sloped or bent. In all 

 these cases, the cuttings must be buried 

 nearly their whole length bereath the 

 surface. Bottom-heat will facility Le speedy 

 rooting. 



Eyes. This is the most appr >ved plan, 

 for the plant thus approaches nearest to 

 a seedling state. These are generally 

 planted in pots, a single eye in each, at 

 the end of January, and plunged -in a 

 bottom-heat of from 70 to 80. Prim- 

 ings are reserved for this purpose in the 

 autumn, and these being cut in conve- 

 nient lengths, are imbedded in moist soil 

 until winter. About half an inch of wood 

 may be : served above the eye, cutting it 

 sloping a.vay from the bud, and about an 

 inch or so below the bud; the latter sec- 

 tion made horizontally. These, inserted 

 singly in five-inch pots, may be plunged 

 in a bottom-heat of from 70 to 80, and 

 care must be taken that the worms do not 

 get into the soil. When grown nearly a 

 foot in height, they should be re-potted 

 into pots of about seven inches diameter, 

 using a rich, turfy soil, and draining 

 thoroughly. Many good gardeners reserve 

 a poriion of the two years old wood at 

 the base of each eye, and there can be 

 little doubt that it is good practice. 



Coil*. Obtain primings from healthy 

 and fruitful vines on the rod system; 

 these prunings should be from two to 

 four feet in length. Such being plunged 

 in a bottom-heat of from 70 to 80, and 

 in an atmosphere ranging from 50 to 

 60, have a tendency to produce roots be- 

 fore shoots ; and this is the object sought. 

 Fruiting-pn^ of twelve to fifteen inches 

 in diamete; -hould be used, and a com- 

 post of turfy loam and half-rotten ma- 

 nure, with the addition of charred ma- 

 terial, lime-rubbish, or sand ; any or all 

 of them added in the proportion of a 

 sixth of the mass, in> order to insure 

 the free passage of moisture. Thorough 

 drainage being secured, the end of the 

 shoot is pressed down against the bottom 

 of the pot, and the shoot bent round, 



until as many coils or turns as possible 

 are made; leaving, at last,, four or five 

 stout eyes above the level of the pot rim. 

 The pot is then filled with the compost, 

 and careful watering, a judicious control 

 of heat, augmenting the amount of at- 

 mospheric warmth as the leaves unfold, 

 together with the usual routine of stop- 

 ping, thinning the berries, &c.,as applied 

 to established vines, must be carried out. 

 The turfy compost is filled in as the coil- 

 ing proceeds. 



Grafting is not often practised. As in. 

 most other cases of grafting, the stock 

 should be slightly in advance of the sciou. 

 Perhaps the stock should have unfolded 

 a few large leaves before the operation is 

 practised. Then the usual whip grafting 

 is the best plan. A couple of eyes on the 

 graft are sufficient. It is good practice to 

 bind moss round the whole at last, even 

 shading the buds of the scion for a while. 

 The moss may be moistened daily. 



Inarching. This may be performed 

 with either the growing shoot, or with 

 that in a rest state. A plant established 

 in a pot of the kind to be introduced 

 must be procured. With regard to in- 

 arching in a rest state, it is proper that 

 the sap should be in motion at the 

 period of operating, and that the stock, 

 if possible, should, as in grafting, be 

 slightly in advance of the scion. Vines 

 which are breaking are in an eligible 

 state, and the kind to be inarched may 

 be just emerging from a rest state. The 

 point of junction being determined, the 

 pot must be so fixed as that no slipping 

 can occur, and that the shoot may be 

 readily bent to meet the parent plant. 

 Nothing is necessary but to pare a thin 

 slice of bark with a little of the wood 

 from the facings of the scion and stock, 

 which are to be fitted, and then to bind 

 them carefully together close, but not too 

 tight, just as in ordinary grafting. A 

 little moss may be fastened round the 

 point of junction, and this frequently 

 moistened. Inarching of the growing 

 shoot is, however, the best practice ; but, 

 it is an operation that requires nice 

 handling. The shoot of the stock is best 

 at about the middle of its annual growth, 

 when it has begun to acquire some so- 

 lidity and toughness. The scion may be 

 somewhat younger,, and everything being 

 adjusted, a section must be made hi each, 

 as before, cutting through the bark and 

 a little into the alburuous matter, and 



