GEE 



[ 401 ] 



GRE 



more rubbly the better, is the best for 

 binding and forming a solid walk. The 

 more speedily it is laid clown after digging 

 from the pit, the more firmly will it bind. 



The following is an excellent plan to 

 make or turn gravel walks in dry weather : 

 If of a sandy or gravelly nature, strew a 

 little clay or marl upon the walk. When 

 turned over, take away the large stones 

 and place them at the bottom of the soil. 

 Immediately after you level your walk, 

 apply your iron roller steadily, and let a 

 labourer follow the roller, pouring upon 

 it water regularly as it passes over the 

 ground ; in twenty-four hours after, if the 

 weather is dry, it will be as solid as a 

 stone-floor. 



The best method of extirpating grass 

 from a gravel walk, is to spread salt in 

 considerable quantities over its whole sur- 

 face ; and if, after the first application, it 

 is found that portions of the ground still 

 exist, let another coating of salt be applied, 

 which will effectually destroy it. Care must 

 be taken, however, if the walk is edged with 

 box, that the salt does not come in con- 

 tact with it, otherwise it will destroy the 

 edging also. 



In the early part of April, gravel 

 walks are usually turned. After the walk 

 has been broken up and levelled, and a 

 facing of new gravel spread over, this 

 ought to be left for three or four days, 

 and until a shower of rain has fallen, 

 before the roller is used. This bleaches 

 the gravel, and washes down the fine 

 particles, so that, immediately after roll- 

 ing, the walk is solid, and has a clean, 

 bright surface. 



The above directions relate to the old 

 system of gravel-walk making; but we 

 strongly recommend the general adoption 

 of CoxcKE'Be WALKS, which see. They 

 are far more durable, and free from 

 weeds. 



GREAT BURNET. Sanguiso'rba. 



GREAT CENTAU'REA. Centau'rea cen- 

 tau'rium. 



GREENHOUSE. This is a light, airy 

 structure designed for plants which can 

 sustain a lowish temperature, but cannot 

 withstand the vicissitudes from frost to 

 sunshine, and from damp to dry, of our 

 common winters. It is distinguished 

 from a plant-stove in requiring but little 

 artificial heat; and from a conservatory 

 in having all the plants (with, perhaps, 

 the exception of climbers for the rafters) 

 grown in portable pots or tubs, and these 

 90 



generally set upon a stage to bring them 

 nearer the glass. 



The mode of constructing such a house 

 must be regulated by the wishes of the 

 proprietor, and the conveniences at his 

 disposal. For general purposes any as- 

 pect will do in an emergency, except the 

 north, and that might be selected for 

 those plants that delight in the shade. 

 The more command of light, with the 

 means at hand of reducing its fierceness 

 and heat when too powerful, the better. 

 From due south to south-east and south- 

 west may be considered the best aspects. 

 If it is a lean-to house, having a sloping 

 roof from a back wall, it should always 

 have a considerable amount of upright 

 glass in front to receive the oblique rays 

 of the sun in winter. By the side of a 

 cottage ornee the front of the house may 

 thus partake of the same style of archi- 

 tecture, while the shed-like, sloping roof 

 may be exchanged for a ridge-and-furrow 

 one, and that concealed from external 

 observation by a light entablature or 

 frieze work. For a neat detached struc- 

 ture it should stand, less or more, north 

 and south, have a ridge-and-furrow roof, 

 and means for breaking the sun's rays 

 in the morning and afternoon. We aro 

 supposing it to be glass all round. When 

 in connexion with other buildings a very 

 useful and elegant house is formed, hav- 

 ing the front and ends of glass, a hipped 

 roof, and an opaque back wall. Here, 

 likewise, by an ornamental entablature, 

 the roof, if desirable, may be wholly or 

 partially concealed, so as not to interfere 

 with architectural propriety, though we 

 should have no great scruples on this 

 score, as the utility of an object, if ap- 

 parent, gives its appropriateness. 



The size of the glass to be used must 

 depend upon the taste and the money 

 wished to be spent by the proprietor. 

 For the roof, especially, it will be desir- 

 able to have it at least sixteen ounces to 

 the foot. Small squares can be procured 

 in boxes very cheap ; but what you gain 

 in glass you partly lose from requiring so 

 many sash-bars. We should not care 

 about having them much above eighteen 

 inches in length. All things considered, if 

 we were to roof a house most economically, 

 we should obtain strong machinery-cut 

 sash- bars, dispense with rafters, use gla^s 

 from fifteen to eighteen inches wide, and 

 say a foot in depth, and secure means <-f 

 ventilation without touching the roof by 



