GEE 



[404] 



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in spring and autumn, in the morning 

 in summer, chiefly in the evening, though 

 at that season we frequently give them a 

 dash several times a day. 



Pruning. This is generally done when 

 the plant has finished flowering when 

 we wish it to start into fresh growth. Of 

 course there are exceptions ; without 

 these exceptions the nature of a plant 

 and the mode of its growth must be the 

 "basis for a system of pruning. For in- 

 stance, we cut down the flowering shoots 

 of an Epacris and a Pelargonium ; hut 

 we act very diiferently both before and 

 after in the two cases. The Epacris i 

 hard-wooded, and, if tolerably ripened, 

 it requires no preparation. The long 

 tranches of most kinds are cut in at once, 

 and the plant is then transferred to a 

 closer and warmer atmosphere, to en 

 courage the formation of new shoots. A 

 cold pit, kept close, is the thing ; some 

 people, with great success, keep them a 

 couple of months in a plant stove. Of 

 course they are duly hardened, and the 

 wood ripened by autumn. On the other 

 hand, the stems of the Geranium are 

 soft and spongy ; if a very valuable kind, 

 this will have been increased by shading, 

 to preserve the colour of the flower. The 

 plant altogether is at a minimum as re- 

 spects its possession of organisable ma- 

 terial ; while, for the sake of the old plant 

 to be kept, and the cuttings for seed from 

 its stems, it is desirable it should be at 

 the maximum. The plants are, therefore, 

 exposed fully to the sun; not a drop 

 more water is given than just to keep 

 the leaves from flagging ; and the stems, 

 instead of being soft and green, become 

 hard and brown, by parting with their 

 watery evaporations, and assimilating 

 fresh solid material. Many other close- 

 headed plants, such as the Azalea, merely 

 require, in general, the stopping of a few 

 of the strongest shoots. 



Time of Potting. This should gene- 

 rally be done after pruning, and when 

 fresh growth has taken place, because it 

 is advisable never to give more checks to 

 a plant at once than can be avoided. 

 When cut down, or pruned, the energies 

 in the stems, and the unmutilated, un- 

 touched roots, are at once put forth in 

 the production of fresh shoots. When 

 these are formed and forming, and the 

 plant is kept close for a time after shifting, 

 fresh roots will soon be formed through 

 their agency, upon the same principle 



that roots are protruded from a cutting 

 of half-ripened wood under a hand-glass. 

 Time for Cuttings. Now we speak 

 merely in general terms. Other things 

 being equal, the older and harder the 

 wood of the cutting, the longer will it be 

 in striking. The younger the wood is, 

 provided it is just hard enough at the 

 base to possess a sufficiency of organisable 

 material, the sooner it will strike ; if too 

 soft and spongy it will rot and damp off. 

 Hence the general time for propagating 

 is regulated by the general time of 

 pruning and fresh growth taking place. 

 Small side-shoots, from 1$ to 3 inches in 

 length, just getting firm at the base, cut 

 to a point with a clean, sharp knife, or 

 taken off close to the older branch, and 

 a few of the lower leaves removed, will 

 succeed in the great majority of cases. 

 It is desirable to get them in in April or 

 May, in the case of slow-growing plants, 

 to have them established before winter. 

 We shall merely add a few requisites: 

 1st, clean pots ; 2nd, secure drainage by 

 an inverted small pot inside a larger one, 

 or by crocks so as to fill it three-quarters 

 full ; 3rd, place rough material or moss 

 over the drainage, to prevent the finer 

 soil washing through it; 4th, cover it 

 with an inch or so of sandy soil, similar 

 to what the plants delight in, if a little 

 charcoal is added all the better, finishing 

 with a layer of pure sand, watering all 

 well, and then allowing it to drain before 

 inserting the cuttings ; 5th, insert the 

 cuttings firmly, fill the small holes made 

 by the dibber with sand, dew all over 

 with the fine rose of a watering-pot, 

 allow the foliage to become dry, place 

 each pot under a bell-glass, or a number 

 under a hand-light, and shade from the 

 sun, either in a corner of the greenhouse, 

 or, better still, in a close frame or pit 

 without any artificial heat being applied, 

 at least none before the cutting begins to 

 swell at its base. Some things may have 

 bottom-heat at once, especially those that 

 have been a little forced previously. 

 Though shade be indispensable, yet as 

 much light as the cuttings will endure 

 must be given, increasing the quantity 

 gradually. 



Sowing Seeds. This may be done at 

 any time when the seeds are thoroughly 

 ripe. As it is of importance to have the 

 seedlings potted off and established be- 

 fore winter, April and May are the best 

 periods in several circumstances. Where 



