HOL 



[437] 



HOL 



HOLBO'LLIA. (Named after F. L. 

 Holboll, of the Royal Botanic Gardens, 

 Copenhagen. Nat. ord., Lardizabalads 

 [Lardizabalacese]. Linn., 21-Monoeda 

 6-Hexandria. Allied to Akebia.) 



Greenhouse climbers, from Nepaul, valued for 

 the fragrance of their dull flowers. Their fruit 

 is eaten in India. Cuttings of half-ripened young 

 shoots in sandy soil, under a glass ; open, sandy 

 loam, with a little peat ; will stand in a cool green- 

 house, in winter, and probably would twine up 

 the wires of a conservative wall in summer. 

 H. acumina'ta (pointed- leafleted}. Purplish. 

 February. 1846. 



angustifo'lia (narrow-leaved). Purple. March. 



latifo'lia (broad-leaved). 10. Green. March. 



1845. 



HOG-NUT. Ca'rya porci'na. 



HOG-PLUM. Spo'ndias. 



HOLLY. (I'lex aquifo'lium.) Of this 

 hardy evergreen shrub there are eight 

 varieties: 1, Silver-edged; 2, Golden- 

 edged ; 3, Thick-leaved ; 4, Prickly ; 5, 

 Yellow-leaved; 6, Variegated; 7, Spotted ; 

 8, Eecurved. 



The holly will not thrive in any poor, 

 light, sandy soil, or in a swampy situation, 

 "but likes a strong, deep, dry, loamy soil. 

 If grown as single ornamental shrubs 

 they should not be overshadowed by 

 other trees ; and if the land is manured, 

 so much the better. As to pruning it, 

 vith a view to make it grow fast, the less 

 you do of that the better. All that is 

 necessary is to encourage the leader, 

 "by stopping any laterals that try to in- 

 terfere with it. 



The most expeditious way of making 

 holly-hedges is to procure large pi ants from 

 'some nursery; but, with the smallest ex- 

 pense and more time, the following maybe 

 recommended : Gather a sufficient quan- 

 tity of berries when ripe ; then dig a hole 

 three or four feet deep, and throw the 

 berries in, crushing and mixing them 

 "with some fine soil at the same time; 

 close the hole with the soil taken out, 

 'and throw some litter, or other covering, 

 over the whole, to prevent the wet or frost 

 "penetrating. Take them up and sow them 

 in March. They will make nice little 

 plants the first season ; and, by trans- 

 planting the stronger ones, you will have 

 fine plants in about three years. 



Large hollies are best moved about the 

 third week in August. With a small cord 

 tie up the lower branches, then mark a 

 tjircle two feet from the bole of the tree, 

 'and another circle two feet beyond the 

 first; the space between the two circles 

 must have all the soil dug deeply out of 



it ; whilst this is going on, let another 

 labourer be digging a hole larger than 

 the ball of the tree will require, making 

 it rather deeper ; fill in some of the best 

 soil, chopped fine, and mix it with water 

 till it forms a puddle of the consistence 

 of thick paint. Gradually undermine 

 the ball below the roots till it stands quite 

 loose; then wrap some garden -mats 

 round, and tie the ball firmly together 

 with a strong rope ; then wrap the stem 

 round as near the soil as possible with 

 some old carpet or sacking; tie to the 

 stem at that part a stout pole eight or 

 nine feet long ; then lower the tree gently 

 down, and let as many men as are neces- 

 sary to carry it take hold of the pole, and 

 remove the tree to its place, letting it 

 down gently into the hole amongst the 

 puddle, taking care that it is not below, 

 but rather above, the general level ; fill 

 in good soil round the ball after the tree 

 is set upright, and the mats, ties, &c., 

 removed. Mix this soil with water till it 

 is a puddle like the bottom ; secure the 

 tree with props, to prevent the winds 

 from shaking it. 



The best time for cutting hollies is 

 early in the spring, about the end of 

 February, before they have begun to 

 shoot. Never clip them with shears, but 

 cut them in with a sharp knife. 



HOLLYHOCK. (Althae'a ro'sea.) By 

 Cuttings. These are made from the 

 young shoots that rise from the base of 

 the strong flower- stems. They may be 

 formed of the tops only, or, if the young 

 shoots are long, they may be cut into 

 lengths of two joints each, removing 

 the lower leaf, and shortening in the 

 upper one. To cause them to send 

 forth roots, a gentle hotbed should be 

 made either of well-fermented dung, 

 tanner's old bark, or fresh-fallen leaves. 

 As soon as the heat is moderated, place 

 the frame upon it, and a covering of dry 

 saw-dust upon the bed within the frame 

 to the depth of five inches. Then pre- 

 pare the cuttings, put them round the 

 edge of pots filled with moist, sandy loam, 

 press the earth close to the bottom of 

 each cutting, and fill up the holes with a 

 little more soil. Then plunge them 

 nearly up to the rim in the saw dust, but 

 give no water, because they are very full 

 of sap, and would damp off immediately. 

 Shade closely and give no air, excepting 

 a little at the back to let out the steam 

 'or an hour in the morning. In six 

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