ROS 



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BOS 



a few of them occasionally after about 

 six weeks, and if they are rooted, lift 

 them carefully with a trowel or small 

 spade, and either pot them or plant them 

 out in rows in a more open situation. By 

 the autumn following they will he nice 

 plants, and may be planted in the situa- 

 tion where they are to grow and flower. 



By Suckers. Roses send up many 

 suckers annually, which may be taken up 

 in autumn, winter, or early spring, with 

 some rootlets attached; and the strongest 

 may be planted out finally, and the 

 weakest in the nursery for a year or two 

 longer. They will readily grow, and will 

 most of them produce flowers the follow- 

 ing summer. When rose-trees have grown 

 into large bunches, with many suckers, 

 the whole may be taken up and slipped, 

 or divided into separate plants. The 

 Moss and some others furnish suckers 

 but sparingly. 



By Layers. To obtain shoots for lay- 

 ering, a quantity of rose-trees should be 

 planted for stools, which, being headed 

 down low, will throw out shoots abun- 

 dantly, near the ground, in summer, for 

 layering in autumn or winter following. 

 (See LAYERING.) They will be rooted 

 by next autumn, and fit for transplanta- 

 tion in nursery rows, though sometimes 

 the moss rose and some others require 

 two years before they are tolerably well 

 rooted ; but of these sorts you may also 

 try layers of the- shoots of the year, lay- 

 ered in summer, any time in June. They 

 will probably root a little the same season. 

 The layers of all the sorts, after being 

 properly rooted, should be taken up in 

 autumn and planted in the nursery, to 

 have one or two years' growth. 



By Budding. See BUDDING and 

 GRAFTING. 



Soil and Situation. The best soil is a 

 rather strong loam ; the deeper it is the 

 better. It should be well-drained. Such 

 land as will grow good wheat or good 

 hops will grow fine roses. Next, it should 

 be rich to grow them fine : if not already 

 so, it ought to have thoroughly decayed 

 dung added to it. A portion of super- 

 phosphate of lime (bones dissolved in oil 

 of vitriol) will be of great benefit to them 

 a manure that may be had of any re- 

 spectable manure-dealer. The rose-gar- 

 den ought to open to the south and east, 

 but be sheltered from the north and 

 north-west winds. Tall beech or horn- 

 beam hedges are the best shelter against 



gales blowing from those points. Hoses 

 should not be planted so near trees as 

 to be overhung by them, as the drip 

 from the trees will prevent them from 

 thriving, and injure the flowers. 



Planting. The best season is the early 

 part of November. They will succeed 

 tolerably even to the middle of March, 

 but not so well as in the autumn. If 

 you have to procure them from a distant 

 nursery, and they are some time out of 

 the ground, make a puddle of earth and 

 water of nearly the consistence of paint. 

 Dip the roots in this puddle, and plant 

 them immediately. Should the border 

 intended for the rose be long and nar- 

 row, plant the tallest standards in the 

 back row, the next size in the second, 

 and the half-standards in the third, and 

 the dwarfs in the front row. 



Autumn Pruning : Summer Roses. 

 Provence, including the Moss Rose. 

 These require to be pruned to three or 

 four eyes, according to the strength of 

 the shoots. Damask. These require to 

 be pruned according to the strength of the 

 growth of the different varieties. Madam 

 Hardy, for instance, is a strong grower, 

 and ought to be left with shoots of six 

 eyes. White Damask. This species 

 should be pruned similarly to the Da- 

 mask. Gallica, or French. Some of 

 these are very strong growers, and must 

 be cut accordingly. Some shoots, in 

 good soil, will grow three or four feet 

 long. Those shoots are often pithy and 

 green, and ought to be cut clean out, and 

 the rest shortened to one foot or eighteen 

 inches, according to their strength. Hy- 

 brid, Provence. They grow naturally in 

 compact heads and many branches, and 

 should be pruned by thinning out about 

 one-third of the shoots, and shortening 

 the rest to six or eight eyes. Hybrid, 

 Chinese. The strong growers, Brennus 

 for instance, must be cut to eight or nine 

 eyes ; whilst the Beauty of Billard is a 

 weak grower, and thould be cut to two 

 or three eyes, and half the shoots en- 

 tii'ely cut away. Scotch. All that these 

 require is to have half of the shoots 

 thinned out, and those that are left cut 

 to half their length. Climbing. These 

 require a different mode of pnining to all 

 other roses. We shall describe it as the 

 spur system. Train in young shoots dur- 

 ing the summer ; in the autumn shorten 

 those shoots one-fourth of their length 

 that is, supposing the shoot is four 



