102 A CALIFORNIA TRAMP. 



revenge for their humiliations from having to yield to Federal 

 power. 



The next morning we retraced our route. Walking in 

 advance of our baggage wagons we waded the Jordan where 

 we crossed it, there being no bridge. Here was another of the 

 "groceries," where whisky was sold at twenty-five cents a 

 drink. We nooned here and again took up the line of march 

 toward Salt Lake City. We soon saw this place, twenty-five 

 miles away, from the divide between the two valleys of Utah 

 and Salt Lake. Near here two remarkable springs gushed 

 forth from the roadside; one hot, the other cold; so close 

 we could almost reach both at once. I could easily say 

 I caught fish in the one and boiled them in the other ; but I 

 forbear. When really or practically alone on his journey a 

 traveler is often tempted to amplify his descriptions, as evidenced 

 by the tales of solitary voyages, from Gulliver down ; so, thus 

 traveling, let me have due credit for my abnegation in not 

 repeating this fish story; one so justified by modern usage. 

 Both springs were impregnated with sulphur. Many similar 

 ones were in the neighborhood; some with embankments 

 around them formed naturally. 



The road we were traveling was a magnificent one; one 

 hundred feet wide, smooth and so straight we could see miles 

 ahead. As we neared the city we saw a few villages inhabited 

 by industrious people. The fields on either hand looked 

 parched and desolate, but the thick set stubble showed that 

 good crops had been raised. They were enclosed with mud 

 walls made by filling board frames with the sticky clay dug 

 from the ditches at the base. 



We passed an extensive beet sugar factory on the way. The 

 machinery had been brought at great expense from England, 

 but the enterprise was a failure and the works silent. Further 

 on was the Penitentiary, also still for want of tenants. We 

 reached the city at sunset, and encamped in a vacant lot, 



