REST. 105 



served clean by city ordinances, a fine of five dollars being 

 put on any one caught washing in it. This I found out by 

 experience, for the straw shed in which I passed the first 

 night of my arrival not being supplied with water, as on 

 account of the great rush of guests the waiters had been un- 

 able to properly attend to the needs of their rooms, I repaired 

 in the morning to the stream running by our hotel, whose 

 hospitable landlord kept open house, to perform my ablutions. 

 I had got fairly under way when I was hailed by a Mormon 

 and informed that I was subject to a fine, but on my inform- 

 ing him of my ignorance of their laws, he said he would let me 

 go. I felt about as grateful to him for his forbearance as most 

 people do w^hen told of a blunder fraught with risk to the 

 maker, the information of which puts the recipient under 

 obligation — that is, so much so that I forgot to thank him, as 

 in a semi- washed condition I turned and walked away. From 

 the appearance of the rest of our party few of them had been 

 in danger of arrest, for voluntary deprivation from water had 

 made them notorious for their ungodliness since leaving the 

 Missouri, and they were disposed to keep it up. 



I give a view of East Temple Street, not to show what the 

 city was like then, for the sketch was made long since, when 

 railroads had made it accessable to tourists and filled it with 

 business enterprise, but to show its position at the foot of the 

 snow-clad Wahsatch Mountains, whence comes the sparkling 

 water which quenches the thirst of its people and irrigates its 

 gardens. The city spreads and rises, but the rugged back- 

 ground gleams from snowy peaks and frowns from shadowy 

 recesses of a lower altitude the same now as then, when thirty 

 years ago I gazed at it from the gateway leading from Utah 

 Valley. 



The houses, w^hich were built of adobes, were generally of 

 one story, so that the town presented rather a squatty appear- 

 ance, which was occasionally relieved, however, by a few houses 

 7 



