218 A CALIFORNIA TRAMP. 



profound dislike to my particular head-gear, which since 

 leaving Salt Lake had done dual duty as night cap and dress 

 hat. After this I would fain have doffed my cap when ap- 

 plying for work, but as politeness was at a discount, hats on 

 at table even not being a cause for expulsion from dining- 

 rooms where we fed, I abstained from this effeminacy. 



Waiting awhile for an invitation to breakfast, which did 

 not evolve, we shouldered our effects with spirits of a down- 

 ward tendency, and trudged off in the direction of a ranch 

 w^here lived two bachelors who we heard were in want of 

 people of about our build. These "twin relics," however, 

 cold-shouldered us and sent us on our way. The market for 

 us seemed glutted ; the supply for us seemed beyond the 

 demand. This state of things was not very creditable to Cali- 

 fornia, but so it was. 



Leaving here, our route lay along a line of telegraph in the 

 direction of a pass in the mountains to the northeast. We 

 soon entered a crooked caiion, down which was laid a narrow 

 wagon road. This was sideling and slippery from the previous 

 night's rain, which was again falling. I traveled as usual in 

 tribulation on account of my feet, teaching the summit we 

 found it so enveloped in mist we could see but a few paces in 

 any direction. Descending the other side of the mountain by 

 a winding stream we came to a lone inn called the " Walnut 

 Creek House," where we got some bread and pork of a land- 

 lady who looked as sour as her bread. The day was cold and 

 wet, and being tired and hungry we stopped at a convenient 

 place and built a fire, where we warmed ourselves and ate our 

 recent purchase. Then we got our pipes and took a smoke. 

 I don't use the weed now, and, in a general way, discounte- 

 nance it ; but when a prohibitory tobacco law is passed I want 

 an exception made in favor of tramps. It cheers them with- 

 out inebriation. I know that after traveling in all kinds of 

 weather, and being perpetually rebuffed by unappreciating 



