280 A CALIFORNIA TRAMP. 



the dense masses sway to and fro; the bells ring; flags and 

 streamers flap in the breeze ; and at last, following a crash of 

 cannon, the machinery is set in motion ; and with a parting 

 bombardment of rotten oranges and bananas we are off for the 

 " States." 



Soon San Francisco with its memories is far astern, and, 

 sailing through the channel leading to the Golden Gate, we 

 are soon beyond the limits of that rock-strewn portal and out 

 on the bosom of the Pacific. So farewell to the amphibious 

 city of the west coast, to its grand bay and its tributary rivers 

 and their rich valleys, and farewell to the beautiful and 

 quaint towns and lone rancheros I passed in troublous pil- 

 grimage, for I am off to new scenes. 



Turning southward we sped down the coast of California, 

 which, for much of the way, was only a faint cloud-bank on 

 our port bow, and afterward not even this was visible, and we 

 lost all sight of land. On the 6th we saw a herd, or a school, 

 or a flock, whichever term is correct, of whales, but we had no 

 time to catch them. On the 9th we came in sight of land. 

 This was the "Marguerites," a group of islands belonging to 

 Mexico. They were barren and rocky, but still a relief to 

 the vision weary with the watery plain around us. 



For economical reasons I had taken passage in the steerage. 

 The fare was $52.50, the odd $2.50 being an export tax ; that 

 in the cabin was $200, and in the intermediate $150. The 

 "Opposition" had reduced the rate flfty per cent. In the 

 steerage was an unpleasant mode of traveling; but I thought 

 I w^ould feel just as well, after getting to New York, as if I had 

 led the Sybaritic life of those in the first cabin, where they 

 had four meals a day, with a lunch between, gilt mirrors to 

 look into, plush-covered furniture to lounge on by day and 

 cosy state-rooms to sleep in at night. Our sleeping places were 

 the two lower decks, and our beds rude bunks where we slept, 

 from three to seven, side by side, on straw matresses. I was 



