HOMEWARD BOUND SOUTHWARD. 287 



when their guns were thrown down, to be ready for a celeri- 

 tous run in case an enemy would ever venture into such a 

 wretched country, a country whose most reliant defense 

 asrainst an unacclimated foe is the vellow fever. The fort was 

 built one hundred years ago, and was skilfully constructed. 

 The chief occupation of the garrison was to guard a chain- 

 gang, who, on their backs, were carrying sand and lime for 

 the use of some convict masons who were repairing the fort. 

 Walking two and two over the sharp stones, with one hand 

 steadying the sack and the other holding up a rattling chain, 

 these felons seemed walking exemplifications of the maxim, 

 "The way of the transgressor is hard." The wretches did not 

 feel their degradation, but with brutal jest and laugh beguiled 

 their labor. Just outside the fort was a government smith 

 shop, the Vulcan of which was chained to his Cyclopian 

 "beezer" by a chain, and so well was the apprentice "inden- 

 tured and firmly bound " to his master, that if this plan had 

 been adopted a generation ago there would have been fewer 

 advertisements in contemporaneous newspapers of " One 

 horseshoe-nail reward." When I saw the chances this twain 

 had for severing the tie which bound them, I thought what a 

 successful strike they might make for their freedom if they 

 tried. 



" Who would be free himself must strike the blow," 



and if there is a hammer and cold-chisel by, so much the 

 easier ; but, alas for these fellows, the propinquity of two sol- 

 diers with loaded muskets prevented them from exercising 

 their ingenuities. 



By the time I came back to the plaza the short-lived twi- 

 light of the tropics had given way to darkness, and the booths 

 were lighted up, making the scene quite lively. Two musi- 

 cians, on violin and flute, were giving the " Orizabians " some 

 sweet music; but the strains were so short and so often re- 



