Shade Tree Suggestions. 



some development the tree may continue to live for a number 

 of years, but it will always be a stump, crowned with stunted 

 branches, whose support grows weaker year by year, as the 

 sore grows larger and the heart wood less. Now any unusual 

 stress of weather (wind, sleet or snow) gradually dismembers 

 it. The tree, which has been a disappointment all these years, 

 is now wholly gone. A decade has passed, and you are just 

 where you began. Plate III, Fig. 3, shows the best that may 

 be hoped for from such trees. Though this particular tree has 

 survived for the unusually long time of twelve years (under 

 the writer's observation), the sores at its crown are gradually 

 getting the better of it, and in a year or two more the main 

 branches will break off by reason of their own weight, and 

 sooner if subjected to unusual stress. All experience, under 

 the conditions found in Wyoming, indicate that the main axis 

 (unless the trees be quite small) should be left untouched. (See 

 Plate IV.) 



METHODS OF PLANTING.* 



Cheap methods of planting produce cheaper results. Me- 

 dium sized healthy trees will fully repay any extra expense in- 

 curred in giving them a fair chance. Crowding them into holes 

 whose smallness is proportioned to the hardness and stoniness 

 of the soil gives to the trees conditions which are unfavorable 

 directly in the ratio of their needs. Starved plants are no more 

 profitable than starved animals. Let the holes be made gen- 

 erously large. The stonier and harder the soil, the greater the 

 need. Spread out the roots in a natural position. Cover with 

 pulverized soil and shake down. Add alternate layers of well 

 pulverized soil and well rotted manure or leaf compost. Satur- 

 ate with water, so that the soil may settle around the roots, thus 

 holding the tree firmly. 



*See Bulletin 38. already cited. 



