Be sure your horse is not carrying his head off to one side, 

 the opposite side to the wheel-swinging leg, for if so this 

 helps to unbalance action and works against the results you 

 are trying to get to a certain extent. Do not have the out- 

 side heel of shoe any longer than the inside but have both 

 same length. 



XXII. KNUCKLING OVER. 



This is caused by weakness, sometimes of the liga- 

 ments that hold the bones of ankle in their sockets, and 

 sometimes higher up. To shoe for this, the first thing to 

 do is to prepare the foot. You are likely to find the hind 

 feet abnormally long, perhaps longer than the front feet. 

 Lower the toes of hind feet as much as they will stand, 

 shorten toes by rasping off as much as the foot will stand, 

 do not touch the heels or have the inside of foot higher 

 than the outside. Now use a light hind shoe, with side 

 calks, the calks to be one and a half to two inches long, and 

 tapering towards the toe of shoe. At the point of heel this 

 calk should be not less than one-half inch high, the higher 

 the better, a square toe shoe is much better than a plain 

 one, shod this way the very best result is obtained at once. 

 A shoe made thick at heels, three-quarters of an inch or 

 more, and thin at the toe for ordinary driving is good. 



XXIII. STUMBLING. 



Is a very dangerous fault and is from a weakness that 

 can be helped a lot. The front feet of a stumbler should 

 be kept as short as possible at the toe. Elevate the heels as 

 much as would be comfortable to the leg and horse. A 

 stumbler should be made to carry some weight in his front 

 shoes because the weight increases knee action, and this is 

 what you want in a stumbler. Shoe with a toe-weight shoe 

 thick at the heels, for height, and roll the toes of the shoes 



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