APH 



[57] 



APH 



Dingy 



A. lonicera, woodbine louse, 

 green. 



A., cerasi, Morello cherry louse. Ap- 

 pears black. Infests the under sides of 

 the leaves, especially on wet soils. 



A. coryli, nut louse. Pale green. 



A. Dahlia, dahlia louse. Amber- 

 coloured. 



A. ribis, red-currant louse. Blackish. 



A. ligustri, privet louse. Dark brown. 



A. ribis-nigri, black-currant louse. 

 Transparent green. 



A. lathy ri, sweet -pea louse. Dark 

 purple. 



A. (Cinara) rapkani, radish - louse. 

 Females, green ; males, lightish red. 



The aphides on the peach appear the 

 earliest, being, as are all the others, the 

 produce of eggs deposited during the 

 previous autumn. During the spring 

 and summer they are viviparous, and 

 breed with extraordinary rapidity. The 

 gardener does well, therefore, to scrub 

 the branches of his wall-trees, and to 

 boil or change the shreds every winter, 

 for he thus destroys the pest in embryo. 

 So soon as they appear in spring, over 

 each wall-tree a mat should be fastened, 

 and tobacco, in some mode, burnt be- 

 neath it. Peas, whilst the dew is upon 

 them, may be dusted with Scotch snuff. 

 Over the apple, plum, and other stand- 

 ards, the only available remedy is a 

 repeated application of quicklime, at the 

 same early period of the day, by the 

 means of Curtis' s lime-duster. 



The larvae of the Coccinella or Lady- 

 bird, especially C. punctata, the Syrphus 

 or bee-like fly, the Hemerobius perla or 

 golden-eyed fly, the ant, some caterpil- 

 lars, and many of the Ichneumonidce, are 

 great destroyers of the aphis, and should 

 be encouraged rather than removed. See 

 American Blight. 



The following directions are applicable 

 to the destruction of every kind of aphis. 

 When you intend to fumigate your plants 

 in a house, pit, or frame, choose a still 

 evening, and let your plants be quite 

 dry. Place them closer together, and in 

 the clear space thus obtained put either 

 an iron pan, or, if you have not such a 

 thing, use a hard-burnt garden-pot ; put 

 in it a few red-hot cinders that do not 

 smoke ; upon those cinders put your to- 

 bacco, or tobacco-paper, rather damp. A 



cloud of smoke will immediately rise, 

 and will soon fill the frame. Brown's 

 fumigator is an excellent instrument for 

 applying tobacco-smoke. As soon as you 

 judge it to be well filled with smoke, 

 remove the pan, or pot, and carry it to 

 the next frame, if you have more than 

 one that requires smoking. Be extremely 

 careful that the tobacco does not break 

 out into a flame, as it is that which does 

 the mischief. If you perceive a likeli- 

 hood of blazing out, prevent it with a 

 sprinkling of water, very gently applied. 

 Cover up the frames with mats to keep 

 in the smoke as long as possible. The 

 next morning examine the aphides, or 

 green flies, and if you find any alive re- 

 peat the smoking the following evening. 

 This second application will most effec- 

 tually destroy all your enemies. You may 

 now syringe the plants pretty severely, 

 to wash away the dead bodies of the 

 slain, and the plants will again thrive 

 and nourish in perfect health and beauty. 



The green fly on plants out of doors, 

 so situated that the smoke of tobacco 

 cannot be so perfectly confined as to de- 

 stroy them, require a different mode of 

 attack, though the same herb furnishes 

 us with a remedy against the foe, only it 

 must be applied in a different form ; that 

 is, as tobacco- water. This can be had at 

 any tobacco manufactory, or it may be 

 made by steeping 4 oz. of tobacco in a 

 gallon of water ; let it stand in the water 

 for a week or so, occasionally stirring it 

 with the hand, and squeezing the tobacco 

 to bring out the strength. It will then 

 be very powerful, and perhaps will bear 

 an addition of water, previously to using, 

 to the extent of one half. Apply it to 

 standard roses by dipping the infested 

 branches in it during a dry evening, and 

 syringing them the next morning. For 

 roses on pillars, or against walls, use the 

 syringe filled with clear liquor, and ap- 

 plied gently all over the shrubs. Verbe- 

 nas and calceolarias in beds are often 

 during the summer months much injured, 

 and their beauty deteriorated, by these 

 insects ; also roses in beds suffer much 

 from the same cause. "We know no bet- 

 ter remedy than the above-mentioned 

 tobacco-water, applied with a syringe or 

 fine-rosed water-pot. 



APHYLLANTHES. (From aphyllos, leaf- 



