BOR 



[142] 



BOR 



S.ruscifo'lia (Ruscus - leaved). 3. Yellow. 

 July. 1790. 



trine? rvia (three-nerved). G. Yellow. July. 



1759. 



undula'ta (wave-leaved). 4. Yellow. July. 



1812. 



BORDER, is a name applied to that nar- 

 row division of the garden which usually 

 accompanies each side of a walk in the 

 kitchen-garden, and to the narrow bed 

 which is near to the garden- wall on one 

 side, and abuts on a walk on the other. 

 In fact, any bed which acts as a boun- 

 dary to a walk, or grass-plot, or the main 

 quarters of a garden, may be properly 

 described as a border. 



1. Fruit Borders Next to the wall 

 should be a path, eighteen inches wide, 

 for the convenience of pruning and 

 gathering. Next to this path should be 

 the border, eight or nine feet wide ; and 

 then the broad walk, which should al- 

 ways encompass the main compartments 

 of the kitchen-garden. The whole of the 

 breadth from the wall to the edge of this 

 main walk should be excavated to the 

 depth of four feet ; the bottom of the 

 excavation rammed hard ; brickbats and 

 large stones then put into the depth of 

 one foot and a half; and the remaining 

 two feet and a half filled up with suitable 

 soil. From the underdrainage of brick- 

 bats, &c., draining pipes should be laid, 

 with an outfall into some neighbouring 

 ditch. No fruit-tree will be healthy if it 

 roots deep, or if its roots are surrounded 

 by superfluous water ; that is, more water 

 than the soil will retain by its own che- 

 mical and capillary attractions. Shallow 

 rooting crops do no harm to the trees 

 grown on fruit borders sufficient to re- 

 quire their total banishment. See Fruit 

 Trees and Stations. 



2. Flower Borders. -These, like the 

 preceding, and indeed, like every other 

 part of the garden not devoted to aquatic 

 and marsh plants, should be well drained. 

 In plotting them, it must also be remem- 

 bered, that, if narrow, no art will impart 

 to them an aspect of boldness and gran- 

 deur. Indeed, narrowness of surface is 

 inseparably connected with an impression 

 that the grounds are of limited extent, 

 and no disposal of the plants will remove 

 the littleness thus suggested. If the 

 pleasure-grounds arc small, narrow bor- 

 ders are permissible ; but even then the 



broader they are the less is the appearance 

 of meanness. Neatness must be the pre- 

 siding deity over flower borders, and no 

 application of the hoe and rake, no re- 

 moval of decayed leaves, no tying up 

 of straggling members, can be too un- 

 remitting. See Flowers. 



Forking Borders. No border, whether 

 tenanted by the roots of fruit-trees, or 

 flowering shrubs, should be ever dug 

 with the spade. The surface turned up 

 roughly with the fork, to benefit by the 

 winter frosts ; and manure, as necessary, 

 turned in with the same implement are 

 sufficient. 



BORECOLE, Brassica oleracea Jimbriata. 



Varieties. Of the following, 1, 2, 3, 

 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 16, are the best. 



1. Brussels Borecole, or Sprouts. 



2. Green Borecole, German or Curled 

 Kale, or Curlies, Scotch or Siberian Kale, 

 Brassica oleracea sclenisia. 



3. Purple Borecole, B. oleracea laci- 

 niata. 



4. Variegated Borecole. 



5. Chou de Milan. 



6. Egyptian or Rabi Kale. 



7. Ragged Jack. 



8. Jerusalem Kale. 



9. Buda, Russian, or Manchester 

 Kale. This is greatly improved by 

 blanching under a pot, like sea kale. 



10. Anjou Kale. 



11. One-thousand-headed cabbage, B. 

 o. accphala. 



12. Palm Borecole. 



13. Portugal or large ribbed. 



14. "VVoburn perennial. This, and 

 indeed the whole race, may be propagated 

 by cuttings, six inches long, planted 

 where to remain in March or April. 



15. Barnes's feathered Savoy. 

 Sowing. The first crop sow about the 



end of March, or early in April, the 

 seedlings of which are fit for pricking out 

 towards the end of April, and for final 

 planting at the close of May, for produc- 

 tion late in autumn, and commencement 

 of winter. Sow again about the middle 

 of May ; for final planting, during July, 

 and lastly in August, for use during 

 winter and early spring. 



Prick out the seedlings when their leaves 

 are about two inches in breadth ; set 

 them about six inches apart each way, 

 and water frequently until established. 



