BUD 



[156] 



BUD 



are formed, yet chiefly in the neighbour- 

 hood of the regular buds. 



BUDDING is the art of making a bud 

 unite to the stem or branch (then called 

 the stock) of another tree or shrub, in- 

 dependently of its parent. The object 

 thus attained is a rapid multiplication of 

 that parent ; and in the case of seedlings, 

 an earlier production of fruit than if the 

 buds were left upon the parent. Deli- 

 cate kinds are strengthened by being 

 worked, as it is technically termed, upon 

 more robust stocks, as when a tender 

 vine is budded on the Syrian, and the 

 double yellow rose upon the common 

 China Variegated roses often lose their 

 distinctive marks if grown upon their 

 own roots. Some roses, budded upon the 

 common brier, afford finer flowers than 

 upon their own stems. Buds from seed- 

 ling peaches and pears are earlier pro- 

 ductive, and produce finer fruit, if budded 

 upon a robust stock; but buds of the 

 pear inserted earlier than the close of 

 August, produce branches and not blos- 

 soms. Where the bud comes in contact 

 with the wood of the stock a confused 

 line is visible, between which line and 

 the bark of the bud new wood is pro- 

 duced, having solely all the characteris- 

 tics of the parent of the bud. Buds of 

 almost every species succeed with most 

 certainty if inserted in shoots of the 

 same year's growth ; but the small wal- 

 nut buds succeed best which arc taken 

 from the base of the annual shoots, 

 where these join the year-old wood of 

 that from which the bud is taken. Buds 

 are usually two years later than grafts 

 in producing fruit, but then every bud 

 will produce a new plant, but each graft 

 has at least three upon it. Buds succeed 

 more readily than grafts, and if a graft 

 inserted in the spring has failed, a bud 

 may succeed in the summer of the same 

 year. Buds are ready for removal when 

 their shield, or bark attached to them, 

 separates readily from the wood. This 

 is usually in July or August, and is inti- 

 mated by the buds being well developed 

 in the axils of the present year's leaves. 

 Scallop-budding may be done almost at 

 any soason. Buds sh/nild be taken from 

 the middle of the shoot; those from its 

 point arc said to make wood too freely, 

 and those from the base to be more un- 



excitable, and consequently less prompt 

 to vegetate. 



Stocks for budding may be much 

 smaller than for grafting, even on the 

 same year's shoot. Several buds may 

 be inserted on older branches, and thus a 

 good head be obtained sooner. On 

 stocks of long standing, scallop -budding 

 is to be adopted. Just after rain, and 

 when there is no violent wind, is a time 

 to be preferred for budding. Whatever 

 mode of budding is adopted, quickness 

 in the operation is indispensable ; for if 

 the wound in the stock or that of the 

 bud becomes dry, the budding will fail. 

 The bark of the stock should be cut and 

 raised first, and if possible on its north 

 side. A piece of moist bast may be 

 twisted over the wound whilst the bud 

 is preparing, and the moment this is done 

 it should be inserted and the ligature 

 put on forthwith. 



The following practical details of bud- 

 ding Fruit trees and Roses details ap- 

 plicable to all other trees and flowering 

 shrubs capable of being thus propagated 

 we have copied from the pages of The 

 Cottage Gardener : 



If the bark does not rise well, that 

 is, does not part freely from the wood, 

 the buds will not succeed. 



A good budding knife is the first 

 thing to be provided; any respectable 

 nurseryman will furnish this.* Next, 

 some really good matting : we prefer the 

 new Cuba bast ; but the finest of the or- 

 dinary Russian mats will answer equally 

 well, perhaps better, provided the mate- 

 rial is very fine and very tough. 



The bast must be cut into lengths 

 and adapted to the size of the stocks be 

 they what they may. A mere novice 

 may soon determine the length neces- 

 sary, by twisting a piece round any twig 

 of similar size, as in the act of budding. 



Before describing the process itself, 

 it will be well to speak of the condition 

 of tlie stocks or subjects to be operated on. 



* The best budding instrument we have 

 ever seen is made by Mr. Turner, Necpaend, 

 Sheffield. It has a budding knife at one end 

 and a grooved hook at the other end. This 

 hook being inserted in the T cut made -with 

 the knife keeps it open, and allows tin- hud to 

 be slipt easily down the groove into its place. 

 It really supplies the buclder with a third 

 hand. 



