HOL 



[486 ] 



HOL 



H. villo'sa (shaggy), East Indies, 1820. 



HOLBO'LLIA. (Named after JF. L. 

 Holboll, of the Royal Botanic Gardens, 

 Copenhagen. Nat. ord., Lardizabalads 

 [Lardizabalacere]. Linn., %I-Moncecia 

 6-Hexandria. Allied to Akebia.) 



Greenhouse climbers from Nepaul, valued 

 for the fragrance of their dull flowers. Their 

 fruit is eaten in India. Cuttings of half- 

 ripened young shoots, in sandy soil, under a 

 glass ; open sandy loam, with a little peat ; will 

 stand in a cool greenhouse in winter, and pro- 

 bably would twine up the wires of a conser- 

 vative wall in summer. 



H. aeumina'ta (pointed-leqfleted). Purplish. 

 February. 1846. 



ungustifo'lia (narrow - leaved). Purple. 



March. 



latifo'lia (broad-leaved). 10. Green. March. 



1845. 



HOG-NUT. Ca'ryaporci'na. 



HOG-PLUM. Spo'ndias. 



HOLLY. (I'lex aqnifo'llum.) Of this 

 hardy evergreen shrub there are eight 

 varieties : 1, silver-edged ; 2, golden- 

 edged ; 3, thick-leaved ; 4, prickly ; 

 5, yellow-leaved ; C, variegated ; 7, spot- 

 ted ; 8, recurved. 



The holly will not thrive in any poor, 

 light, sandy soil, or in a swampy situa- 

 tion, but likes a strong, deep, dry, loamy 

 soil. If grown as single ornamental 

 shrubs, they should not be over-sha- 

 dowed by other trees ; and if the land 

 is manured, so much the better. As to 

 pruning it, with a view to make it grow 

 fast, the less you do of that the better. 

 All that is necessary is to encourage 

 the leader, if necessary, by stopping any 

 laterals that try to interfere with it. 



The most expeditious way of making 

 holly. hedges is to procure large plants 

 from some nursery ; but, with the 

 smallest expense and more time, the 

 following may be recommended: 

 Gather a sufficient quantity of berries 

 when ripe; then dig a hole three or 

 four feet deep, and throw the berries 

 in, crushing and mixing them with 

 some fine soil at the same time ; close 

 the hole with the soil taken out, and 

 throw some litter, or other covering, 

 over the whole, to prevent the wet or 

 frost penetrating. Take them up and 

 sow them in March. They will make 

 nice little plants the first season ; and, 

 by transplanting the stronger ones, you 



will have fine plants in about three 

 years. 



Large hollies are best moved about 

 the thiixl week in August. With a small 

 cord tie up the lower branches, then 

 mark a circle two feet from the bole of 

 the tree, and another circle two feet 

 beyond the first; the space between 

 the two circles must have all the soil 

 dug deeply out of it ; whilst this is 

 going on, let another labourer be dig- 

 ging a hole larger than the ball of 

 the tree will require, making it rather 

 deeper ; fill in some of the best soil, 

 chopped line, and mix it with water 

 till it forms a puddle of the consistence 

 of thick paint. Gradually undermine 

 the ball below the roots till it stands 

 quite loose ; then wrap some garden 

 mats round, and tie the ball firmly to- 

 gether with a strong rope ; then wrap 

 the stem round as near the soil as pos- 

 sible with some old carpet or sacking ; 

 tie to the stem at that part a stout pole 

 eight or nine feet long ; then lower the 

 tree gently down, and let as many men 

 as are necessary to carry it take hold 

 of the pole and remove the tree to its 

 place, letting it down gently into the 

 hole amongst the puddle, taking care 

 that it is not below, but rather above 

 the general level ; fill in good soil round 

 the ball after the tree is set upright, 

 and the mats, ties, etc., removed. Mix 

 this soil with water till it is a puddle 

 like the bottom ; secure the tree with 

 I props to prevent the winds from shak- 

 ing it. 



The best time for cutting hollies 

 is early in the spring, about the end 

 of February, before they have begun 

 to shoot. Never clip them with shears, 

 but cut them in with a sharp knife. 



HOLLYHOCK. (Allha'a ro'sea.) J3y 

 Cuttings. These are made from the 

 ', young shoots that rise from the base of 

 the strong flower stems. They may be 

 formed of the tops only, or, if the 

 young shoots are long, they may be cut 

 into lengths of two joints each, remov- 

 ing the lower leaf, and shortening in 

 ! the upper one. To cause them to 

 i send forth roots, a gentle hotbed should 

 i be made, either of well-fermented dung, 

 tanner's old bark, or fresh fallen leaves. 

 1 As soon as the heat, is moderated, place 



