190< 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE. 



319 



est the extractor. The machine is again 

 speeded up, and the operation repeated. 



The strainer-box, No. 4, Fig. 1, is made of 

 i lumber, 12 in. deep, 18 in. wide, and 3^ to 

 6 ft. long, as the case may require. A strip 

 of half-inch stuff is nailed around the top, 

 and allowed to come up an inch above the 

 top of the box. This makes a large rabbet 

 or ledge all around the top of the box for 

 the strainers to rest in. The strainers are 

 made of fine-mesh cheese-clo'th which is fas- 

 tened to I'ims made of -iX^-inch stuff, long 

 enough to set across the box and rest on the 

 rabbets at the sides of the strainer-box, and 

 wide enough so that three to six will just fill 

 the box lengthwise when they ax'e set side by 

 side. The box in the picture. Fig. 1, has 

 three strainers. 



The cheese-cloth is fastened so that it bags 

 uniformly, and nearly reaches the bottom of 

 the box. The strainer- box No. 4, Fig. 1, is 



DETAIL OF THE CAN-FILLER. 



run with the honey-gate open most of the 

 time. It is put together with water-tight 

 joints, well painted on the outside; and then, 

 as an extra precaution against leaking, is 

 waxed inside. These strainers, themselves, 

 can be cleaned very easily after the honey 

 has mostly drained through. The strainers, 

 one at a time, can be lifted out, the refuse 

 tipped out by turning the strainer inside out 

 with an easy motion of the hands, and, if 

 very sticky, can be scraped to hasten matters. 

 Then it can be set into water to soak, still 

 remaining inside out, leaving the sticky side 

 down. The wooden rim floats on the top. 

 effectually preventing any of the bits of wax, 

 etc., which soak off and fill the water from 

 getting into the strainer and sticking to the 

 clean side when it is raised out of the water. 

 After soaking a short time the bits can 

 easily be removed by raising the strainer 

 from the water and giving it a few sharp 

 jerks or fiips; but if the bits should not all 

 come off they will do no damage, as, in re- 

 placing the strainer, the original clean side 



will be placed downward, and these few bits 

 of wax will still be prevented from going in- 

 to the honey. 



We generally have a few extra strainers 

 on hand to exchange with or take the place 

 of those that temporarily become unfit for 

 use. When the cheese-cloth becomes worn 

 it can cheaply be replaced with new. The 

 honey runs directly from this box through a 

 large molasses-gate into 60-lb. cans which 

 rest on the automatic can-filler, and, as fill- 

 ed, are placed into cases and nailed up ready 

 for market. 



For the last three years I have' used a ma- 

 chine made of four small-sized automatic fill- 

 ers set side by side in a stand of convenient 

 height, and attached to four gates set into 

 the side of one strainer-box. With this nr-. 

 rangement I can fill small packages from 

 jelly-glasses to gallon cans as fast as an op-, 

 erator can set on the empty and take off the 

 full packages. In fact, I have filled pint 

 Mason jars faster than two assistants could 

 put on the rubbers and caps. 



View, Utah. 



FOUL BROOD. 



A Treatment that AVill Enable the Up-to- 

 date Bee-keepers to Cope Successfully 

 With the Disease, Without the Loss 

 of Bees or Honey Crop. 



BY W. W. CASE. 



The rational treatment of an apiary infect- 

 ed with foul brood, like many other bee prob- 

 lems, depends, to a great extent, on good, 

 sovind, common sense, combined with gen- 

 eral knowledge of the disease, and is more 

 or less modified by the time of season. On 

 finding bad brood in the apiary in spring or 

 early summer no one should become uncTuly 

 alarmed, or act too hastily, as it may or may 

 not be foul brood. Examine again in a few 

 days; and if the disease is found to be pro- 

 gressing, and you are sure of its being foul 

 brood, proceed as follows: 



Do not give surplus room, but keep the 

 colony crowded as much as possible, thus in- 

 ducing it to swarm early; and if it will Jiol, 

 swarm naturally, compel it to do so by the 

 "shook swarm" route just as soon as it be- 

 comes real strong. In either case, after 

 swai'ming remove the old colony to a new 

 stand and hive the swarm on the old stand 

 in a qjean hive on foundation, and leave it 

 entirely alone for one week. Let the old 

 stock, as usual, raise a queen; and on the 

 evening of the 21st day after the swarm is- 

 sued, the brood being then all hatched and 

 the young queen commencing to lay, shake 

 the bees from the combs on to foundation, 

 after which the old combs can be rendered 

 into wax. 



If the apiary is large, and a considerable 

 number of colonies are found to be promis- 

 cuously infected throughout the yard, it is 

 better to remove all the infected' colonies, 

 after swarming, to one end of the yard, pref- 

 erably separated from the other colonies by 



