1907 



GLEANINGS IN^BEE CULTURE. 



851 



OUTDOOR VS. INDOOR HIVE FEEDING. 



My bees came out of the cellar in quite a 

 weakened condition because of dysentery; and 

 since they were set out the weather has been 

 cold and freezing nearly every night through 

 April, consequently they are little different 

 than when set out the last week in March. 

 It will require the best stimulative method 

 to get them ready for the harvest. JNIost of 

 the hives having tight bottom-boards I can 

 not use the Alexander feeder, which I consid- 

 er the best for building up colonies in the 

 spring, as with them they can take in feed, 

 rain or shine. 



One yard is too far from home to be visit- 

 ed every day. so I am thinking of hanging 

 up perforated tive-gallon cans at each yard 

 and filling them every other day, beginning 

 now and continuing till clover blooms. A 

 few questions. 



1. Will you kindly tell me how large the 

 perforations should be — what size of nail is 

 best to make the holes, and how many holes 

 should there be in the end of a can? 



2. How many cans will be needed for an 

 apiary of 90 colonies? 



3. Will not the syrup drip out at night or 

 on cool days when the bees are not gather- 

 ing it, so that a tub will be needed under 

 each can to catch the drippings? 



Portage, Wis. _ A. C. Allen. 



[Until settled warm weather comes on we 

 would not advise outdoor feeding. Your 

 better way would be to feed within the hive. 

 This can be accomplished by putting on an 

 upper story or comb-honey super and put- 

 ting therein a feeder. If the weather be cool 

 or chilly, cover the feeder with a blanket to 

 hold the heat of the cluster down. After set- 

 tled warm weather comes on, the outdoor 

 method of feeding can be used to good ad- 

 vantage. A square can elevated in the air, 

 as described in Gleanings, is as good as 

 any thing. The holes pricked in the end of 

 the can should be about the size of an ordi- 

 nary pin — the smaller the better if you desire 

 to keep bees busy a long time. This size 

 will just about enable the bees to take up all 

 the syrup in 48 hours. If you want them to 

 take the feed slower, make the pin-holes 

 smaller. 



There will be no waste of syrup when the 

 bees are not gathering it on cool days, be- 

 cause atmospheric pressure will hold the 

 feed within the can until it is actually drawn 

 out by the bees. 



If you have a hundred colonies in a yard 

 you would probably need two or three cans 

 in order to provide all the bees with the nec- 

 essary stores. 



r We' wish to say, howtver, that outdoor 

 feeding is rather hard on the bees that gath- 

 er it. They will struggle against each other 

 for the food, and this has a tendency to wear 

 them out prematurely. In the early spring 

 they should be saved all the effort possible 

 until they are strong enough to stand a loss 

 of bees that wear themselves out in going to 

 an outdoor feeder. — Ed.] 



CAGED QUEENS IN UPPER STORIES; ALEXAN- 

 DER PLAN FOR MAKING INCREASE. 



Please tell me if I can keep queens in cages 

 in upper stories ten days. 1 intend to divide 

 by the Alexander system, and buy queens for 

 new colonies. I should like to know if it 

 would prevent swarming to put brood in the 

 second story (as in the Alexander system), 

 leaving them there, when no increase is de- 

 sired, working the bees for extracted honey. 



Farwell, Neb. C. H. Kuhn. 



[Yes, you can keep queens in cages in up- 

 per stories ten days, pi'ovided there are bees 

 to attend to them. 



The plan you mention does prevent swarm- 

 ing to a very great extent, and, possibly, al- 

 together in your climate. — Ed.] 



EVERY MAN HIS OWN MASTER. 



From 20 hives, worked for comb honey, I 

 took 1000 lbs. in 1-lb. boxes. I use the Hoff- 

 man frame and 4^X4^X11 plain sections, but 

 will not argue about the matter of whether 1 

 am right or wrong, with any one. I think 

 the better way for bee-keepers is to use what- 

 ever bee-hive, frame, or section they like, 

 and let others do the same. 



Smyrna, Maine. Bertha M. Timoney. 



LOAF SUGAR FOR WINTER FEEDING. 



I notice that Mr. Alexander on page 315, 

 mentions the use of loaf sugar for winter 

 use. I indoi'se it, as I have used it for five 

 wintei's with no loss. I use the supers, and 

 don't waste the sugar as it is not mussy. 



New Durham, N. J. Robt. Digen. 



[Yes, but we must be careful not to get 

 the sugar too moist. It should be given the 

 bees in a shallow tray. — Ed.] 



UPPER ENTRANCES. 



In Gleanings, page 573, Mr. Alexander 

 says: "Also have a separate enti'ance for 

 each hive." You would oblige me, friend 

 Root, by giving me a short hint concerning 

 the best way for making a separate entrance 

 in a second or third deep story (Langstroth), 

 and also in a shallow one (5|, for instance), 

 without injuring the body of the hive. 



Bochum, Germany. E. Westphal. 



[This may be accomplished by pushing the 

 upper story back | of an inch. Also, you 

 may make an entrance through the hand- 

 holes, which answers the purpose very well, 

 and does not mutilate the hive. — Ed.] 



