1907 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE. 



909 



say nothing of the complete emancipation 

 from disease. 



As we are selling bees and queens we keep 

 up the process of recombing, fumigating 

 hives, buildings, and utensils, with formal- 

 dehyde; and all articles that can be subject- 

 ed to a hot steam bath are given a good 

 thorough steaming. This is done every year. 



The main feature of the Somerford meth- 

 od involves this scheme of recombing and of 

 feeding, which feeding puts the bees in so 

 healthy and prosperous a state that they are 

 able to ward off disease. — Ed.] 



UNCAPPING-COMBS. 



A Properly Constructed Uncapping-can ; 

 Heatinff Knives. 



BY C. W. DAYTON. 



While 1 am waiting to hear some discussion 

 from others on the question of honey-knives 

 there will be time to look into the matter of 

 uncapping-utensils. The Dadant can is all 

 . right for 50 to 75 colonies, except that it does 

 not permit of the feet of the operator extend- 

 ing under it, and on this account the work- 

 man is compelled to remain at a distance 

 from the can. This is a fault which needs 

 correction. It is, indeed, restful to lean for- 

 wai'd against the cappings-receptacle, and it 

 is especially the case where there are many 

 hours of steady work. Where the outside 

 helper has bent over the hives a long time 

 in taking out combs of honey, and feels as if 

 a seat would I'est his weary self, if he can 

 help uncap and lean against the capping-can 

 it is as good as half a seat, and a little long- 

 er space of time will give sufficient restful- 

 ness. 



A capping-can should be at least 26 inches 

 in diameter, so that two persons can work. 

 For 200 to 300 colonies it should not be less 

 than 34 or 35 inches -in diameter. It needs 

 that size for two persons working steadily. 

 I know that they can get along with more 

 cramped conditions for a while at first. ' But 

 a larger can costs but a few cents more, any 

 way. 



There are a great many large wooden 

 boxes in use in this State which ought to be 

 pitched out of the back door, but a round, 

 convenient metal box instead, having a nice-' 

 ly fitting cover to keep out Hies, bees, and 

 vermin when not in use. Such a one I have 

 had in use for the past ten or fifteen years, 

 and I know all about its advantages. , Such 

 a capping-can I have pictured, exactly as 

 mine is. 



C is a cross-arm 2X2 inched, or 2x3 or any 

 other size desired, by 20 in length, shoulder- 

 ed and mortised into the two shorter cross- 

 arms H H. 



Fastened on C is a strip of hard steel 2| 

 inches in width and 20 inches long, and bev- 

 eled on the under side of the edges to clean 

 the honey-knife of honey, which sticks close- 

 ly. This is the kind of steel used on a wagon- 

 spring, but hardened . It should be very hard, 



like the knife of a card or paper cutter — those 

 which cut with a square edge. 



To huld the comb in one place, a small cup, 

 B, is utilized. The end of the top-bar is 

 thi-ust into it, and the comb can be whirled 

 about while uncapping. The cups I use aic 

 of metal, the same as broom-makers use in 

 the hollow of the hand to thrust the needle 

 through the broom. A hole is drilled for the 

 nail as shown. I is a bent projecting wire, foi- 

 the far side of the frame to swing against 

 while it is being uncapped. 



J J are open spaces beneath the strip of 

 steel A, for the fi-ee movement of cappings 

 as they are scraped from the knife. 



DAYTON S UNCJlPPING-CAN. 



D shows the boards as notched to make the 

 stand or foundation for the capping-can to 

 stand on. The boards may be 10 or 12 inches 

 in width if the can is 24 inches deep, which 

 will probably be found to be of about the 

 best height for working. 



A 10-inch space under the cap-can will ad- 

 mit of a pail or a five-gallon can being laid 

 down on its side, and having a 3x3-inch hole 

 cut in its side. The cap-can should be set to 

 draining evexy evening, or during working 

 hours, and the honey poured into the extract- 

 or where it will find its way into the tanks 

 with the regular run of honey. 



When cappings accumulate in the capping- 

 can, and get in the way of the working, they 

 are taken out and pounded down hard in a 

 tank with considerable honey adhering to 

 them. This keeps moths from woi'king in 

 the cappings until they are ready to have the 

 wax rendered from them, whether it should 

 be a year or several years thereafter. I leave 

 the melting of the wax until there is plenty 



