Contents 



CHAPTER VIII 

 TAXES MONOPOLIES POVERTY page 



State interference with trade — Exports discouraged — Taxing 

 to death — Regulation of milling — Sugar cultivation 

 and manufacture — An extreme instance of Protection 

 — Its drawbacks and dangers — Restrictive import 

 duties — Their evil effects — Profits from visitors and 

 shipping — Population and poverty — A German bubble 146 



CHAPTER IX 



THE GARDEN IN SPRING 



The flowers of March — Brilliant climbers — A rock garden ; 

 a record of failure — Fruits — The banana — A plague 

 of ants — Butterflies — Birds — Cutting sugar-cane — 

 Vines — The wine-trade — Its brilliant past — Ferns 

 — Their habitat . . . . . . .165 



CHAPTER X 



ANTIQUITIES 



Absence of any indications of early habitation — The 

 chroniclers — How history is made — The Canary Isles 

 — Their aboriginal inhabitants — The Salvages — Ser- 

 torius — Cathedral of Funchal — Town architecture — 

 Sugar cultivation and the slave-trade — Opportunities 

 of the collector — Furniture, plate, china — A legend of 

 Chippendale — Books and duties — Curiosities of cata- 

 loguing — A poetaster . . . . . .186 



CHAPTER XI 

 THE NORTH SIDE 



Difficulties of travel — A journey to Sta. Anna — The central 

 passes — A precipitous coast — Crops and industry — 

 Island of Porto Santo — Columbus — The journey west- 

 ward — 'A charming village — The angelus — A valley 

 and a mountain-pass — A curious chapel — A coast 

 path — The mountain plateau ..... 206 



xiii 



