Contents 



CHAPTER XII 



HOLY-DAYS AND HOLIDAYS page 



The observance of Holy Week — Processions — Orderly 

 crowds — Our parish procession — Sympathy of Church 

 and people — The Church and population — Sentimental 

 attraction of the Church — English pessimism — Portu- 

 guese ministerial crisis — Courtship and marriage — 

 Street music — Account of the processions of Funchal . 228 



CHAPTER XIII 



MOUNTAINS AND ISLANDS 



The central mountains — The Grand Curral — A mountain 

 road — Significance of The Road — Its antiquity and 

 permanence — Pioneering in Africa — Pico Arriero — 

 The cloud-belt — Absence of sport — The wild goats 

 of the Desertas — Weird scenery — Seals — A captive — 

 A dash for freedom . . . . . -251 



CHAPTER XIV 

 THE GARDEN IN ITS GLORY 



Brilliant flower-display — Absence of well-defined seasons 

 — Its consequences — Roses — Bignonia — Wistaria — 

 Datura — Moonlight nights — The starry heavens — 

 Some gardens of Funchal — Fonnalists and naturalists 

 — The pergola — Its uses — Garden paths — Cobble- 

 stones — Garden masonry — Passion for symmetry , z6i 



CHAPTER XV 



DEPARTURE 



An uneventful winter — The German Company — German 

 visitors — Increase of English visitors — Tariff Reform 

 possibilities — Mr. Chamberlain's visit to Madeira — 

 The time of departure — Lost opportunities — The 

 pleasures of memory — Tunny-fishing — The love of 

 places — Farewell . . . . • • .281 



xiv .-^ 



