EDIBLE CEPHALOPODS. 43 



at their backs : they loosen the limpets and other fish that 

 adhere to the rocks with the stick, and put them into the 

 basket, which, when full, they empty into the satchel." * 

 The Japanese even, though a civilized nation, appear to 

 make such a considerable use of shell-fish that they may be 

 reckoned among their necessaries. " All sorts of oysters, 

 mussels, and shells, of which there is a great plenty and 

 surprising variety in the Japanese seas, are eat, none ex- 

 cepted, raw, pickled, salted, boiled, or fried. They are 

 daily gathered on the coasts in low water. Divers dive for 

 them to a considerable depth. Others fish them with nets." 

 One the most esteemed is the Haliotis or Awabi, probably 

 the same as those mentioned by Beechy, of which Kaempfer 

 gives the following account : " They lie deep under water, 

 sticking fast to rocks, or to the bottom of the sea, from 

 whence they are taken up by fishermen's wives, they being 

 the best divers of the country. They go down armed with 

 darts, or long knives, to defend themselves against Kayes 

 and Porpesses ; and when they see an Awabi they pull it off 

 suddenly before the animal is aware, because otherwise it 

 would fasten itself to the rocks or the bottom of the sea so 

 strongly that no force would be strong enough to tear it off. 

 This shell is filled with a large piece of flesh of a yellowish 

 or whitish colour, and a very tough substance, though with- 

 out fibres. They say it was the common food of their neces- 

 sitous ancestors, in memory whereof when they entertain 

 company, they always provide a dish of it. It is also be- 

 come a custom with them, as well among the vulgar as people 

 of quality, that when they send one another presents of 

 money, cloth, stuffs, fruits, or any thing else, a string, or at 

 least, a small bit of the dried flesh of this shell is sent along 

 with them as a good omen, and in order to put them in mind 

 of the indigence of their forefathers. The flesh is cut into 

 thin slices or strings, which are extended on a board and 

 dried." f 



Of the Cephalopods several species are edible and are used 

 for food in the maritime parts of Italy, France, Greece, and 

 other countries of southern Europe, epicures selecting those 

 kinds that are distinguished for their tenderness and sapidity. 



* See also Voy. of Advent, and Beagle, iii. 234. 



f Hist, of Japan, i. 139. I cannot make out what the " Clacas " of the 

 island of Teneriffe is. They are affirmed to be " absolutely the very best 

 shell-fish in the world." " They grow in the rocks five or six under one 

 great shell, through the top holes whereof they peep out with their nebs, 

 from whence (the shells being broken a little more open with a stone) they 

 draw them forth." Sprats Hist. R. Soc. p. 208. 



