TO SIRINUGGUR. 9 



officials to examine passengers and take toll. The path 

 thence descends roughly and irregularly to a small valley, 

 in which is the halting place, the ' baraduri ' being a 

 repaired portion of one of the old ' serais/ built, I 

 believe, by the Emperor Akbar. Many of them still exist, 

 as also remnants of bridges, also the work of that mighty 

 potentate. 



This place is called Saidabad, and though, perhaps, as 

 hot as the Punjab, being very confined, the pines and firs, 

 the variety of foliage, green crops, and verdant grassy 

 slopes, with hills around you, and mountains in the dis- 

 tance, tend much to lessen the sense of heat. There are 

 officials and sepoys here, and supplies in moderation 

 tattoos, perhaps, coolies, fowls, &c. to be had. 



21st April. I made a good start for Nowshera, sending 

 on a coolie with a basket containing breakfast. 



The first part of the road is rough and difficult, lying 

 by the stream, interrupted by rocks ; but it now opens 

 into a pretty narrow valley, from which you ascend a stiff 

 steep hill of rock, but well wooded, and, at this season, 

 clothed with varieties of flowering shrubs and plants, 

 dog-roses abounding, -by which the air was pleasantly 

 perfumed. On the summit of the hill is an old piece of 

 solid masonry, now inhabited by an old couple who supply 

 excellent milk and eggs to wayfarers. 



There is a beautiful and very extensive view from this 

 eminence of a fertile valley in which, on a small hill, is 

 situate Nowshera, its white buildings conspicuous. But 

 the object of interest is the snowy ridge of the Panjal 

 range, and interposing itself midway, so as to exclude 

 from sight all but the upper ridges of the Pir Panjal, lies 

 the Rattan Panjal, its upper crests partially and thinly 

 covered with snow. The whole scene is charming as 

 viewed at early morning, ere the dews, ascending in misty 



