SIRINUGGLR TO THE WURDWAN. 33 



middle of the back are longest, and extend to the swell : 

 all the points are worked into a sort of finishing plait, 

 from the centre of which depends a large tassel. The 

 effect, were the hair but clean, would, I think, be 

 charming. Of the figures I can say nothing, as they are 

 enveloped in a hideous, shapeless, woollen smock, of no 

 pretension to form or fashion. This appears to be the 

 only article of dress the lower classes wear, and I have 

 seen no other. I have been much struck with the deci- 

 dedly Jewish caste of countenance repeatedly exhibited. 

 Some faces, I have noticed, would be positively affirmed 

 to belong to that remarkable race, if in Europe. 



Another observation I made was, that the expression 

 was quite different from other Asiatic races I am acquainted 

 with, there being an open, frank, and agreeable intelligent 

 look about the Cashmiries quite European, and such as 

 you would expect to meet with only in a highly-civilized 

 people. I should like to unravel the mystery of their 

 origin, but that is lost in the mists of early traditions, 

 not to be relied on : and their country has undergone so 

 many changes of rulers, that the original race, though 

 perhaps still retaining much of its own characteristics, 

 has imbibed those of the races commingling with them. 



5th May. I walked through the city to the Jumma 

 Musjed, the principal place of Mahomedan worship, now 

 much dilapidated and rapidly yielding to the desolating 

 inroads of time, without any attempt, apparently, to check 

 or repair its ravages. A complete panorama of the city 

 is presented to the visitor from the top of the 'musjed.' 

 The city, unworthy of the name, is only an irregular 

 collection of wooden hovels, extending over some two 

 hundred acres, its form undefined. The surrounding 

 country is picturesque, presenting a pleasing variety of 

 mountain and water, but deficient in timber. The beauty 



